Thread: Cheapest mods?

im sure honda's getting stolen left and right didnt help u out either lol , i hate me 2 cars

Manu G20 ECU. Higher revs and no speed govenor so your Honda friends don't laugh at you after 110 mph. $85 shipped from me.

Yeah Yakima makes one...

I would do the following mods in the following order...

1. Intake (CAI or WAI - BPi Flow Stack or JWT Pop for WAI) - $50-300
2. New Copper Spark Plugs, side gaped and indexed ~1-7whp - $10
3. 91 Intake cam ~8whp - $50
4. SSAC Header ~8-16whp - $100
5. Bosch 15727 4 Wire O2 sensor ~0whp, car wont be rich and will get better gas mileage - $50
6. Advanced Timing ~5whp - Free but you have to use 93 gas from now on
7. ThermoBlok Spacer ~10whp - $130
8. UR Pulleys ~6whp - $200
9. Fidanza Flywheel ~1-5 whp - $300 - Quick revving = priceless
10. Cat Back exhaust, 2.5" or 3", at least $300.
11. Calum ECU or JWT ECU

No need for a short shifter, you can modify the throw and cut your stock one.





Yes on header no on cat-back. Dollar per WHP on cat-back exhausts is usually very high. Plus you have to live with a ricey sounding car that is loud and obnoxious.



Do not buy an exhaust from eBay. I wasted my money and ended up with an OEM 2.5" one and STI muffler and will never look back.

that sucks vadim .... looked like a decent kit ,,, what was the bad about it ?

I've learned the hard way, I don't want anyone else to go through that same crap, so here I'll give a few reasons why to keep away...

1. Fitment wont always be the best
2. Quality is below par, the stainless steel metal is so thin that the hangers ripped a chunk off the pipe. Gaskets are crappy too
3. Very Loud and very raspy
4. Changed the Muffler to make it quiet, started sounding like ass because the resonator was very crappy. New resonator later finally sounded better.
5. Muffler is a typical ricey 4.5" can that every cop will pull you over for.
6. After I was done with it the only part of the ebay kit that I had left was the b pipe (one that circles around the gas tank).
   

From a price stand point...

Exhaust - $250ish shipped
New Muffler - $150
New Resonator - $80
New better quality piping kit (no reso or muffler since you already have better ones) - $250.

So you basically go back where you started but you have wasted $250.

Get a exhaust from OEM guys or VRS. Both are worth the money.

Yes to modifying stock shifter by moving the pivot ball up. No to cutting it.

Do these in THIS order. DO NOT bother with a highport intake cam. Just save your money for bigger cams than that (Like JWT cams if you are deciding to stay DE)

1. Clean your throttle body and intake manifold. ($3)
2. Advanced timing (Free)
3. Intake
4. Header ($100 ish)
5. Fidanza flywheel ($250 ish) AND clutch (I got mine for around $200 ish)
6. UR pulleys
7. Thermoblock spacers
8. JWT or BC Cams
9. 3" Exhaust.
10. Turbo or Nitrous.




Cut it for what? To make the shifter shorter? Therefore increasing the distance of the shifter from the steering wheel?????

Sorry Vadim but....

NO

if i could recommend what headers to get i would deffinately say to get these
Nissan/Infiniti Headers there a little expensive but you will feel the diffference big time.. on a regular p10 116 hp bumped it up to 140hp and this is just with headers.. no exahust/cams/intake.. nothing.. but the price is $650.. not a bad price.. and these headers are interchangable with a SR20VE so if you end up swaping your engine with a VE you could use these headers... just my 2cents

Uhhh you guys. I shorted the shifter it self at first, that's because I got tired of the shifter hitting my drinks. I had 0 problems when I shortened the stick it self.

I then went back and shortened the throw by moving the ball. I'm not saying shorten it to the point that it barely sticks out, shorten it a tiny bit.






Weren't they dyno proven to have the exact same top HP, and little more mid hp?