Thread: Flywheel?

So Im putting a bluebird motor in my 200sx and just bought a stage 3 clutch. I was wondering if I should get a Fidanza lightened flywheel? And do they last with being aluminum?

It should help, Ohh and Fidanza has inserts that you can buy to replace worn ones if they ever go out.

Well that is awesome. Ive been kind of suspicious of the aluminum vs the hardened steel stock flywheel but Fidanza says all the "important" parts are hardened steel. hmmmm
may get one. Oh and Im getting an Avenir motor from Andreas Miko now instead of the BB. Anyone know where I can get the lightened flywheel for under $400?

Ebay... And since you have a B14 you will need 143621 NIS 19, otherwise you will have a check engine light.

To save you some time:
FIDANZA ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL G20 NX SENTRA 200SX SER SR20:eBay Motors (item 390041828022 end time Aug-31-09 17:03:55 PDT)

A light flywheel will kill your traction, will make it harder to start/stop especially on hills. But with lightweight pulleys you will be hitting the redline in no time

Kill my traction even with 6.5 to 7" tires/wheels?

And thanks for the link!

Really??? Ive put 47K miles with 6 trips from FL to TX on my Fidanza flywheel and I have no PS and mechanical water pump, with a UR crank and Alternator pulley. It actually makes it EASIER to stop. Its not harder to start. Just got to give it a bit more gas as youre letting off the clutch. Once youre rolling the car moves much easier up a hill.

A light flywheel wont kill your traction. You just have to relearn your car. You cant just floor it like before. Relearn the car and it will accelerate MUCH quicker. Love it.

Replacing the friction plate is a PLUS on the Fidanza. Its so easy. and once you put the new friction plate on you basically have a brand new flywheel vs having to send one out to get resurfaced.

Here is a picture with the flywheel on the car with the old friction plate.


Here is a picture of the old friction plate vs the new one on the flywheel.

What does that translate to in width/height? Your about to put 185whp stock onto a car that's under 2500 lbs, and front wheel drive at that. Trust me you will have traction issues.

You will need solid motor mounts, prothanes, stiffer suspension, and sticky tires to not loose traction.



Oh I personally don't have much of a problem, but other people can't drive my car at all.

I've noticed that when parking on the hill, especially when you have to back up, you will have to give throttle to like 4k rpm before you move.

With a turbo you will loose traction. Before the flywheel and a 6 puck clutch, I had traction in first gear (motor mounts and suspension), until about 6800rpm. Now I start breaking them loose at about 6000rpm in first. Second gear is good up to 7k.

Now I also have the fatter sister, B14 SE-L at 2600lbs while you guys have 2300-2500lbs. I'm another 230lbs to the weight of the car. Even with a passenger it will light up the tires.

It also depends on what tires youre using. You can have a 225/45/15 tire that sucks compared to a good 195/50/15.

I have the RPFs back on my car again and they weigh 10 lbs less than the stock B14 SE-R wheels EACH. Starting off actually is much easier now and stopping is MUCH better. A lightened flywheel is one of THE best things you can do to your car.

^Thanks for these pics. When do you know, or think you should change the friction plate?

I think the best mod for your car is actually a Turbo

I wasn't all that impressed with the flywheel gains, the thing is I have an RR Auto P11, and that thing still revs faster then my SE-L with Flywheel and Pulleys.

Now I have the Building Performance Nissan Sub Compacts book. Sarah covers flywheels there. Basically with Flywheels you don't gain any Horse Power, or not noticeable because it varies by gears.

In first gear you gain about 30whp or someplace around there, and it decreases until about 2 whp in 4th gear.

EDIT: Alright found the book, in first gear the flywheel frees up 16.6 hp, 5.9hp in second, 1.7hp in 4th and 1hp in 5th.