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Thread: B14 Rear Beam Problem UPDATED FIXED

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Posts: 11-20 of 24
2008-01-08 13:23:17
#11
im surprised so many of us had this problem and have not fixed it.

That bushing provides cushioning to the complete rear suspension in the Pan hard aparatus,

. it looks to be a pain in the ass to get in there. The rear beam might need to be removed. I am not sure but in order to press it in there that might be the case.
2008-01-08 13:44:58
#12
The beam should not need to be removed for the scott russell linkage bushings to be replaced.

Looking from the back, you drop the left side first and the right side will slide out.
2008-01-09 01:38:50
#13
So as expected, the bushings were a pain to replace. Just as a side note I had octotat poly bushings in the rear, but since I am going to have my beam bent this spring, zero toe + poly bushings will be too crazy for high speed antics!

The beam did not have to be dropped. It was too tight to use a conventional press, so some sort of ball-joint press was used, which made the job fairly easy sounds like.

I believe that on my car the large bushing in the middle is in decent shape, but I'll take another look while it is on the lift.
2008-01-09 20:13:10
#14
Originally Posted by Brakedust
So as expected, the bushings were a pain to replace. Just as a side note I had octotat poly bushings in the rear, but since I am going to have my beam bent this spring, zero toe + poly bushings will be too crazy for high speed antics!

The beam did not have to be dropped. It was too tight to use a conventional press, so some sort of ball-joint press was used, which made the job fairly easy sounds like.

I believe that on my car the large bushing in the middle is in decent shape, but I'll take another look while it is on the lift.


Yea, I had to use a Ball Joint / U-Joint service press tool ( basicly a large c-clamp ) ...worked awesome ... Just used a sawzall to cut the old ones out, then the Ball joint press to press them in ... NO way it could be done without that tool .... mabie in a press with the right collar , but its gona have to be a large press !!
2008-01-23 13:51:32
#15
Update
ordered the part from nissan it was $78 with the discount and would have been $95 with out.

# 7 ,8 , 9 is all included for the repair.

it includes the bushings and the new part.

it is the piece that goes right under the beam near the passenger rear.
2008-12-17 04:41:47
#16
Update
well the rear is is finaly complete, I am trying to get my suspension ready for track day at the convention so i figured i should get everything done before we go.

so i replaced one of my rear AGX that was shot after only 7k

I also replaced the FActory REAR pan hard bushing and stabilizer shown in the part pics above. you can see in my pic the new black rear section.

I also replaced the rear sway bar links and bushings

bad to new




Cane on the lookl out


2008-12-19 07:46:20
#17
deleted
2008-12-20 06:10:24
#18
It's not that AGX's are designed for the track and can't hold up on the street... it's that they're not designed for such a short stroke. Suspension travel is already limited in the rear of a B14... throw on some softish lowering springs and now the AGX's have very little room left to work. That's why Custom Shortened Konis are so popular. If you want anything more than a Hyperco/RoadMagnet level of drop, you really need a set of Custom Shortened Konis (CSK).
2009-02-05 08:11:05
#19
Originally Posted by Rodrigo
ordered the part from nissan it was $78 with the discount and would have been $95 with out.

# 7 ,8 , 9 is all included for the repair.

it includes the bushings and the new part.

it is the piece that goes right under the beam near the passenger rear.


the black part in the pic....did it come with the bushings already in them? do you have the part #'s please?
2009-02-05 16:20:02
#20
yes the bushing is already inside the part it cost $97 from nissan

its called the pan hard bushing assembly
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