Thread: Best VE Timing

The correct base timing specification depends on the timing map in the bin file that you are using. If your bin is thinking that your base timing is set to 5* (as some of the VE OEM bins are set up) but you have it set to 15* (which is the factory setting for DEs and standard for Calum's bin files) then you will not get the expected results. So you have to make sure that you start your tuning at the base timing spec for the bin that you are running.

Then it makes sense to go to the dyno and adjust timing in 2* increments to get best results. If you have a programmable ECU, you can change advance in the timing map to optimize output depending on RPM (get the best timing for mid range and high RPM).

Generally, don't mess with timing until you confirm that you have a good safe AFR - otherwise your engine may be prone to detonation. With AFRs in the range of 12.8-13.0, NA SR20s generally stop giving more power with increased advance before they start to detonate. Get your best power and then back off a degree or two for safety.

Centering the dist means nothing. Set your timming w a light

This thread makes me lol.

Timing will be different for every motor, and as a few have mentioned it is not something that can just be set and used, it needs to be monitored with either a knock sensor or on the dyno or preferably both. Do what cory and Mr.billc suggest and you will see the best gains possible. Those who just set static timing to a number and went are playing a dangerous game. I would not go past 15deg unless your tune is designed otherwise or you are monitoring it somehow.

Let the record state that the fact that the ve 'loves" timing is actually a strong indication that its efficiency (not volumetric) is very poor, so be sure not to mention that around anyone you want to like your motor.

Old thread back from the dead.

Dudeman

Yeah. Its been a while so I don't remember exact *, but a timing light was used.

The only way to find the best timing is to get on the dyno. Otherwise, it's like playing darts in the dark. Chances are you are going to miss the target.

The whole point to getting a Calum basic ecu is to have the ability to tune, change the ignition and fuel maps. What's the point of having one, if all you are going to do is turn the distributor, thereby changing the ignition timing globally.

I think the Calum RT is the one thats tunable. Seems like I'll set it to 15 until I get it tuned out. Locally, the cost to dyno tune my car ranges from 250-300, which is a bit pricey right now (waiting on my tax return).
On the other forum, Calum ECU and VE ignition Timing? - SR20 Forum, people got good results setting their timing to 12. I know every car is different but I've read many people with similar mods who set their timing to either 12, 15, and 19 or higher. thanks!

The basic is tuneable just like the RT, you just have to pull the chips out and burn them everytime you make a change to the bin. Just because someone has the same mods as you doesnt mean their bin will give you the most power or will you be safe with detonation, different head castings, compression, etc will yeild different results.

Isnt it best to set the Calum to 15 degrees base and then just change the timing maps up top?

Yes you are correct, but as you can see there are many people who dont know and dont care to learn how to do that. They want to use the Calum like the JWT ecu and just use the dist to make minor timing changes. It works for them I guess but is less than ideal.