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Thread: Opened my valve cover and found this!

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Posts: 11-20 of 44
2013-07-08 17:15:00
#11
Originally Posted by Vadim

Problem is when you start cleaning it, it starts chucking off and can start clocking oil lines. On mine I killed 2-3 timing chain tensioners.


The exact problem with trying to clean it, quickly.
2013-07-08 17:23:12
#12
Regular oil changes,over time will break it down over time.if you put chunks loose in the oils system you may damage the motor.
2013-07-08 17:25:00
#13
Originally Posted by Kyle
Originally Posted by Vadim

Problem is when you start cleaning it, it starts chucking off and can start clocking oil lines. On mine I killed 2-3 timing chain tensioners.


The exact problem with trying to clean it, quickly.


I tried multiple things. First I did physically scrape off anything major from the top, then I drove with 1qt ATF and rest oil. Tried doing diesel flushes, tried doing using Auto RX, etc. etc. At the end of the day, I just pulled the engine and went with a DET (once I saved enough money for a new motor).

I would say mine was more severe, so it was probably toast since day one (even though it lasted me a good 30k mostly propblem free miles).



Originally Posted by gio94sr20ve
Regular oil changes,over time will break it down over time.if you put chunks loose in the oils system you may damage the motor.


Yup in his case ATF cocktail or Auto RX might actually work.
Last edited by Vadim on 2013-07-08 at 17-27-04.
2013-07-08 17:27:51
#14
Ok, this is my plan, im going to remove the valve cover and try to get as much sludge out as i can with a spoon or something like that... at least on the top parts. Then im going to remove the oil pan and clean it.

My mechanic is telling me to do a flush and use some cheap engine oil to change the oil after 1000 miles... i will still discuss with him the flush thing because im worried if it would clock any oil line...

At least i think this is a start on how to get that engine cleaned...
2013-07-08 17:30:24
#15
An engine cleans itself as it drives. Long intervals cause the sludge to build up. Decreasing the amount of mileage you allow between intervals will slowly clean it up and what I believe to be the safest way to clean it. Run cheap, dino oil, change it more often than before and it will clean up in what I believe to be the safest way possible.
2013-07-08 18:54:27
#16
Pull the head, get it cleaned and ported while its out. At least then you get some benefit from the labour, downtime and cost of the new headgasket.

Similarly pull the sump and oil pick up and clean them. Bit more work but you'll sleep better at night.
Last edited by Doctor G on 2013-07-08 at 19-30-31.
2013-07-08 19:07:45
#17
Yeah Doc i thought of pulling the head out and getting it ported... =) ill have to see how much it cost... but i will keep that in mind...
2013-07-08 19:23:55
#18
Dont use a flush. Just change regurlarly with regular oil, it will clean out by itself over time.

Btw I agree with Jamie, as a matter of fact... I remember a certain 10:1 sludgie powered automatic P10 passing a red b13 on the expressway. @gio94sr20ve
2013-07-09 01:24:14
#19
Originally Posted by Kyle
An engine cleans itself as it drives. Long intervals cause the sludge to build up. Decreasing the amount of mileage you allow between intervals will slowly clean it up and what I believe to be the safest way to clean it. Run cheap, dino oil, change it more often than before and it will clean up in what I believe to be the safest way possible.


Heat has a lot of things to do with it, with heat dino oil starts breaking down. Synthetic definitely helps because it doesn't break down as easily or the same way. My B14 was a DC car, thus it sat in traffic a lot, owner probably never did an oil change either, he just saw that it was low on oil and topped it off ha.
2013-07-09 14:22:50
#20
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by Kyle
An engine cleans itself as it drives. Long intervals cause the sludge to build up. Decreasing the amount of mileage you allow between intervals will slowly clean it up and what I believe to be the safest way to clean it. Run cheap, dino oil, change it more often than before and it will clean up in what I believe to be the safest way possible.


Heat has a lot of things to do with it, with heat dino oil starts breaking down. Synthetic definitely helps because it doesn't break down as easily or the same way. My B14 was a DC car, thus it sat in traffic a lot, owner probably never did an oil change either, he just saw that it was low on oil and topped it off ha.


That is why I asked the OP to decrease his mileage in between intervals (and then make it cheaper by using dino oil. A proper synthetic with correct detergents will clean it out faster, but I would still limit my overall mileage intervals to half of whatever I was doing before.

I know Valvoline Semi-Synth blend Red Bottle has detergents made to clean sludge from engines.

" Valvoline synthetics are higher in detergents to help clean an engine " and "There are many different additive formulations that affect an engine oil. Some additives assist the engine with seal leaks, cleaning and other important factors." -Valvoline.com

Usually the synthetic oils will condition any small or minor leaks and eventually they either improve or go away but that was not the case for when I switch to Mobil 1 full synthetic, after three oil changes, the leaks never changed, and I had found what I wanted and went back to Valvoline.
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