Originally Posted by
Forcedif ur that afraid get a ati fluid damper
No need, stock one is more then good for it.
Originally Posted by
totaled200ser There is only so much timing you can add before you stop making power.
This, I was running, without knock, up to 35* of timing up top on N1 cams. I could probably run even 37* but there is no point if you are not making any more power. Getting more air in would be more beneficial then being able to run more timing in this case.
Originally Posted by
riverna
@Vadim
Why I cant use lightwight pulleys?
Stock crank pulley works like a damper/harmonic balancer. If you go light weight you loose the damping and harmonic balancing ability.
Originally Posted by
b12sr20ve you removed all the lightweight pulleys or just the crank pulley?
I only had the Crank and WP GSpec pulleys. Removed the Crank only, so the only under-driving pulley is the water pump one, which is very useful.
Originally Posted by
totaled200ser
Whether or not an un-dampend crank pulley on a ve will do harm is a debatable topic, search for crank pulley threads on the ve. Many prefer the stock pulley with damper because of the 4cw crank. I don't see an issue with the G-spec pulley myself for normal street use but if you plan on keeping the revs high you may not want to run it. I would run a light weight flywheel and stock or ati damper on the ve. You can use the other pulleys if you can find them but they don't make that much of a difference. The water pump pulley is a good idea to prevent cavitation at higher rpms.
It will very different for every car, but for me personally on 20VE cams, reving to 7300 rpm was pointless because of weird vibrations/noise and some power loss. That day I installed the regular stock pulley, went for a drive and hit 7500 rpm without noticing.
I did logs for both runs and as per virtual dyno I actually gained a few ponies with stock pulley.