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Thread: bend valves?? possibly?

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Posts: 21-30 of 49
2012-01-25 08:16:31
#21
Ashton on my latest build my engine builder suggested removing that oiling pin, after I told him the VE's seem to have tendancy to spit them out occasionally. He says it's there purely for noise reduction mainly, and they ran all their race motors without them. There is another oiling hole near/below the tensioner that oils the chain anyways. So we blanked it off with a grub screw. A little piece of mind, for a little compromise.


As for the cam gear bolts, it's a good thing I saw this thread. Gonna remove and red loctite my bolts tonight. What is the advantage of the FLANGED bolts vs the Allen bolts?
2012-01-25 08:23:58
#22
I wouldnt remove it. Mine popped out on my VE, I put some red loctite on it and pounded it back in and let it cure for 24 hours and it never popped out again. Yeah the only thing id be worried about it originally popping out is if it caught between the gear and chain and your screwed.

Im gonna try to take mine out so I can red loctite it. The higher pressure from the VE pumps and especially turbo guys using thicker oils usually does it and pops it out. But after the initial incident and loctiting it, it never came back out even after using 15w50 oil and 10k+ miles on it. Loctite seems to do the trick.
2012-01-25 08:44:13
#23
Its probably not for everyone. Just putting it out there as an option for the guys who's cars aren't generally daily drives etc.
2012-01-25 14:42:17
#24
Originally Posted by Doctor

As for the cam gear bolts, it's a good thing I saw this thread. Gonna remove and red loctite my bolts tonight. What is the advantage of the FLANGED bolts vs the Allen bolts?


More clamping force and it's easier to adjust too since you just use a wrench to turn vs trying to stick the allen in and turn.
2012-01-25 16:36:23
#25
i am using some cheap chinese ebay cam gears. brand: Circuit Sports.

CIRCUIT SPORTS CAM GEARS 89-98 NISSAN 240SX S13 S14 SILVIA SR20DET SR SR20 ONLY | eBay

I didnt change the hex bolts. however i used high strength loctite on all the bolts and washers.

using for about 2 weeks now. wanted the Custom Steel but none was in stock. guess i was a bit impatient

did you loctite or threadlock your bolts?

not trying to justify my bad decision of cheapness, but from what i saw, it's not that the bolts were weak as there was no sign of breaking, but they were not secured properly

peace
Last edited by niZmo on 2012-01-25 at 16-41-37.
2012-01-26 01:54:11
#26
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
So with the chain breaking and bolts flying through and chewing up everything, the valves seat fine and there are no marks on the pistons? That is amazing if I am understanding what you are saying you found. That would be very good news if the only damage is what you showed us you found.

yes its true because like i said on the first post, i was going uphill on 3rd gear and in less than 2krpm so thats the reason anything got hit or damaged internaly. Thank GOD!
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Your chain oiling pin is gone as well. The hole just above the crank gear is for the chain oiler. It looks like a little pin that goes in there. On the front face it has a little dot. More than likely it snapped off by the looks of it laving the part that goes into the block in the hole. Looks like in your picture its laying on the ground with your chain. Its the little round solid looking piece.

Dont forget to replace that. Hopefully you can get that part seperately if not you might need to put up a wanted ad for someone with a bad block to pull theirs out if they can get it out. Doesnt matter if you get it off a de or ve.

Well time to remove the head, put a new chain, oil pump, guides if they were damaged,vet headgasket, crank gear and slap it back together.


thanks for telling me that its the first time i dissarm an sr20 so i didnt know what was that, but no worries about that i can get one used from a friend if its the same from de or ve.

as for the engine i already got the guides, chain and crank gear just need to order a new oil pump and tensioner and good to go! Thanks for everything!
Originally Posted by David
Hey how does the bottom end look inside? That top end looks horrible. I'm sure it runs great, but I'd start using some sort of oil additive to clean out all that gunk before it becomes a problem later down the road. I would recommend using the AMSoil engine flush and follow their directions, maybe do it this oil change and then do it a second time at the next oil change 3K miles. Do not use any flush that has mineral spirits, it needs detergents that are formulated only for use to clean engine oil from a running engine, something that is heat activated and not a corrosive.

lol.... yes well it looks the same way like the top side of the engine... but dont worry it will get cleaned rush before getting all back together and so the engine bay! and will take time to make a little easier the harness too! because the stock way of it its HORRIBLE!!!! i hate sr20 harness!! THANKS!
2012-01-26 02:11:48
#27
Yes the oiling pins are the same for every SR motor.
2012-01-28 04:00:04
#28
talking about that oil pin does it goes thread in the hole or just pushed in?
2012-01-28 04:04:53
#29
Originally Posted by joelosr20
talking about that oil pin does it goes thread in the hole or just pushed in?


i told you that on facebook..
and other thing...
the first thing a told you was... CHANGE THE DAM SCREWS !!!! now you know wy!!! jeje
2012-01-28 04:21:01
#30
Its pushed in there. not threaded.
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