Thread: just found out VVL is not working on stock p11 ECU???

support him up the car with racks that can fit changes, the case is rolling,, then you can insert a tester or a LED and speed, so you see the led or the tester,

With the engine idling, use a multimeter and thin pin, probe the plugs on the vvl solenoids and work out which wire is power. Put your pin the the other terminal of the plug, and run a wire to earth/the head, there should be a click, and the engine note should change and start to run ropey. Do this on both solenoids, this confirms the solenoids are getting power, and that they work.

Then wire in some test lights, leds or whatever suits, to the terminals, either under the bonnet or on the ecu direct, and have the lights in the cabin where you can see where they are switching.

I am presuming you are not running the cvt too.

On the stock ecu, cam swith points are very high, and rev limit kicks in soon after, so you dont get a lot of cam, but in saying that the 20ve low lobes are not terrible, jut be nice to have more revs once you get to switch over point.

I have fitted many VE ecus to DE looms, and basically they plug in, VE maf wired in with plug, and VVL wires added, and i have never had any issues with cam switching. Modifying a VE loom to work in the car has serious issues due to the CVT computers not being there, takes a lot of work to get it going.

If you want to know if it is working conect both VVL selenoids to postive on the battery and to a switch that is grounded and switch them on while you are driving a 6200 RPMS and see if they are working.


If you wan to see if the ECU is working just get a light bulb and connect it to the wireharness for the VVL selenoids run the wire into the car and drive it down the street. You will then know if the ECU is working properly

i am a bit confused, because from that vid, it's certain that at least the exhaust cam is coming in @ 6200rpm. that is where it's set in the stock p11 20ve ecu

the sound alone is obvious

no tuning map will cause that sound

if you want your vvl to come in earlier, you will need a vcon or rpm switch

peace

It is definitely kicking in. Unplug the selonoids go for a spin and youll notice the difference.

Agreed!! You can hear that baby POP!!

thanks to all of your suggestions..

though I am not very technical when it becomes to wiring and how the ecu works I will have these tests but maybe I will try to unplug the solenoids and run it to 7200k

since we can hear it pop at 6200 does this mean its the exhaust only kickin in or BOTh are kickin in at 6200??

again I appreciate all of the help and thats why I stay in this forum I am still learning a lot

OK I am reviving this thread...

All this while I though my VVL was working correctly thinking both intake and exhaust pops at the same time thinking the 20ve ECu does them both at 6200

I have yet to rechip my ECu as we are waiting for the VE daughterboard so I wanted to get some switches to pop my VVLs earlier but then.....

I read somewhere that stock 20ve ECU pops VVL at 5800 intake and 6150 exhaust...so I was alarmed i couldnt hear a pop at 5800

today I run the car with the green VVL solenoid unplugged (exhaust) and ran the car on the streets. I could not hear any pop at all especially at 5800...
when i plugged the green solenoid again VVL pop loud at 6200 even with a muffler.

So....does this mean that my intake cam is not popping VVL?
I was told to check the wiring using a light tester (bulb) and also check the solenoid assy for clogging...

Any more easy ways for checking the fault?

Dont forget that intake cam isnt easily hearable.

Stock P11 SR20VE ECU does intake@4500 and exhaust@6100 IIRC. It's functioning normal. Cheap upgrade would be to make both kick in at 4500 (bridge them)