Thread: Is there any way VVL can kick in by itself, no solenoid power?

It sounds like my exhaust VVL kicks in sporadically between 4-5k RPM. Then kicks in again around 6,500RPM and stays on until fuel cut. No solenoid power. Is this possible or am I hearing something else that sounds just like the exhaust VVL?

This is driving me crazy.

could be the tune

But how? How could the rail pressurize?

The only other thing I can think of is that the the dash tach is lagging a bit. I changed the switch to 5,300 RPM and I don't notice any popping around 4k but it still pops in and out until about 6-7k.

So I guess that sounds more like a pressure issue or dirty valve train.

Power is amazing and after so many high RPM runs, the motor is running stronger and silky.

JWT ECU, about 17 degrees timing, new ignition components, M1 10w30, new solenoids. Base TPS voltage about .45 volts, MAF reground and in spec and O2 reporting OK with OBD2 reader trip log.

I've never taken apart the solenoids on the VVL but I have worked with nitrous solenoids, and I'm guessing if there is something getting in the way of the seal It's possible for oil pressure to pass the seal and make it switch cams. Like I said I'm guessing because I've never taken my VVL system apart so I don't know 100% how it works

The solenoids are new and designed so that oil pressurizes the inlet and the solenoid pushes a channeled plunger into the stream to allow oil to flow up and out the solenoid and pressurize the rocker channel.

I wonder if the voltage to the solenoid were to weak if the oil pressure could push the plunger back home and stop the oil from pressurizing the channel.

Still cant't figure out why the exhaust VVL kicks in without power to the solenoids at the high RPM range.

At this point I'll be installing an oil pressure gauge when I get some cash.

make sure you have the clip on the intake solenoid it will vibrate loose under load causing it to drop in and out.

Got replacements from GregV so I don't have that knock sensor type clip.

I set the window switch from 4,500 (for testing) to 5,300 and noticed that the exhaust cam is popping in and out after the trigger, not before, and can't fully activate until 6k or so. I still don't get why the exhaust VVL kicks in around 6k without the solenoids powered.

I think the tach on the dash was lagging a bit making it look like the exhaust was popping at a lower RPM than it was. Now it seems that the exhaust VVL is working, but intermittently. Guess I should get an oil gauge and clean up the valve train.

Video: Note in the first run the bass increase around 4,800 RPM, then it cuts out just after 5k. I had the cam trigger set to 4,500k. Then jumps in and out around 6-on. In the second run it didn't kick in until around 6,200. I have a 4-2-1 header with a 2" collector and stock P11 catback so the VVL activation sound is muted. It helps to listen with headphones or good speakers. I edited the audio to make the engine sound louder than it normally appears.

http://organisum.com:/forums/sr20/ve/VVVLexhaustPopping.mov

Confirmed today that the same sound happens without the solenoids powered/connected.

New dizzy with cap and rotor. swapped fuel pumps between P11 and B15. No difference.

I have noticed that everything works fine pulling hard out of a right hand corner. No surges.