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Thread: bent ex valve's

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Posts: 31-39 of 39
2012-01-18 07:06:40
#31
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
In my opinion, unless you are revving above 8000 rpms all the time stock springs and retainers are the way to go with N1 cams. The N1 springs had lighter spring pressure than the oe sr20ve ones and they had no issue going to 9k and beyond so in a sense, o.e. sr20ve springs are an upgrade, lol. I would just leave the stock valvetrain unless you change to a more aggressive cam setup and then do it all at once since it can be done in the car. I have seen people running n1 cams rev to 9500 every day and have no issues. Like I said 8k all day and a few blasts a day to 9k plus won't hurt anything. I know it is piece of mind to some people but to me if it worked for Nissan, it works for me. The ramp angle on the N1 cams is not very aggressive which is why you can get away with revving so high with lower spring pressure. I wouldn't run 20v outer springs either since it is just an extra thing that can go wrong when installing. Keep things as simple as possible. The ecu you are looking at is perfect for your setup. Just have a rev limiter set to anywhere between 8 & 9k and you should be find and not ruining any engines. I know once it happens to you once people become a little paranoid but with a simple set up like I suggested, you have no need to be. The simpler the better. Also, not sure what header you are running now but a good header is key to making good power on a simple setup like this. A 20v header is a nice option or a JMR as much as I am a Jun fan makes good numbers and is reasonably priced and since Stratton is the one selling them I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him. Tuning and header, tuning and header, tuning and header! I think I got that out of my system.


ooookkk lol im determined to get this bitch built time for some overtime when i start work for the extra beer and parts next i gotta figure out a way to carry my motor outside when its put together shes in my room in zip lock Baggies and i live in the 2nd floor
2012-01-18 07:18:26
#32
I would suggest assembling it where you have it now so you don't lose anything. If it is not feasible to assemble it where it is, make sure that you have everything labeled. Especially if this is your first sr20 build. The reason I keep stressing simplicity spending the money on the right parts is that there is no reason that you shouldn't be able to build a 205-230whp sr20ve (depending on dyno variations) for not too much money and have it be reliable as hell. Where I usually see issues with people when they decide to do a build similar to this is when they start to over build for what their goals are. If you are ok with around 205-230whp then I think I have given you the right recipe. Take it or leave it but I have seen so many people spends thousands only to have a large paper weight or a really expensive engine that makes no more or less power than what I suggested to do. Good luck in your build and keep us updated.
2012-01-18 07:51:12
#33
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
I would suggest assembling it where you have it now so you don't lose anything. If it is not feasible to assemble it where it is, make sure that you have everything labeled. Especially if this is your first sr20 build. The reason I keep stressing simplicity spending the money on the right parts is that there is no reason that you shouldn't be able to build a 205-230whp sr20ve (depending on dyno variations) for not too much money and have it be reliable as hell. Where I usually see issues with people when they decide to do a build similar to this is when they start to over build for what their goals are. If you are ok with around 205-230whp then I think I have given you the right recipe. Take it or leave it but I have seen so many people spends thousands only to have a large paper weight or a really expensive engine that makes no more or less power than what I suggested to do. Good luck in your build and keep us updated.




budget build ftmfw..! need to get my hands on a decent torque wrench too thanks for the info i will def make a separate pic heavy thread don't no how long it may be to finish it but im sure it will serve other members in the future
2012-01-18 10:07:13
#34
he is right a good 4-1 OR a Tri Y, and a tuned ECU...

if you have extra money an sr16ve LSd tranny will be a nice upgrade
2012-01-18 12:14:42
#35
The transmission is a decent upgrade but it costs a good amount and depends on what the op wants out of the car. Is he willing to live at the higher rpm on the highway and the noise that comes with it? I would say that the MFactory final drive in the se-r box is better suited to the hp levels he is working with. They will both have a noticeable difference in acceleration but will have to rev higher to achieve the same mph.
2012-01-18 17:23:59
#36
thats another point right there i havent really looked in to in the right gearbox for me once the set up is put together im gonna want 5th gear to be sit back and relax while i drive from central long island to laguardia queens every day.. 5th gear with the original b13 gearbox around 65-80mph was fairly loud and 3500 rpm how could i benefit from both the good acceleration of the sr16 or b13 box and non ear penetrating ride to work and fuel efficient traveling if its possible.. lol if not il jus slap a resonator on that shit to quiet it down a bit or buy a 96 corolla as a dd and leave the b13 at home :...(
2012-01-18 22:05:53
#37
any wayzz im off to "home d pot" lol for some bolts to mount my block to the stand =D
2012-01-18 22:40:28
#38
Hell yea man make a good pic heavy thread off your build im in for this and good lookin out man
2012-01-19 00:40:36
#39
got the ve block on the stand covered it up to keep her safe from the elements =D
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