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Thread: bent ex valve's

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Posts: 21-30 of 39
2011-10-22 11:38:30
#21
Originally Posted by STRATTON
yeah i know gino. hes done alot of my machine work. my fully built ve head could have been there when you were there. he had looked it over after my bottom end let loose.

i was actually gonna call him today to get some prices for something i have planned over the winter, but i am going to use my fathers engine builders machinest.

but ginos a good guy, his prices are fair, i feel he does a good job.

when you get your car together well have to meet up, there is a few of us ve b13 guys on the island. theres actually a big nissan meet nov 13, four of us ve guys are rolling out, you should come with.

if you ever need any info or parts give me a shout.

stratton.


good looking out for boss yeah ima try my best to be able to build up by then but my chances are slim my block looks like it needs some tlc so ima take it slow and build it up right but deff i will be seeking some more guidance in the near future from yal =)
2011-10-23 00:46:45
#22
whats wrong with the block ?

stratton.
2011-11-21 04:34:41
#23
Originally Posted by STRATTON
whats wrong with the block ?

stratton.


took the block apart crank had play the thrust bearings where a copper color and worn down the main bearings where kinda scuffed up and i wanna go with a different piston what piston would you recommend for a good dd and run pump gas 93 oct
2011-11-21 13:23:23
#24
sr16 or n1 depending on what you use to tune with, or cp 12.5:1
2011-11-21 17:09:53
#25
Notched N1
2012-01-18 05:47:05
#26
Originally Posted by macakin
Notched N1


me interesa eso macakin =D
2012-01-18 06:01:44
#27
ive been M.I.A for a while now!! how much notching is involved in being able to use n1 pistons or the reg sr16 pistons for $60 a pop send them out to get treated seams like a good route to take a buddy of mine has a set of n1 cams for me so that helps my pocket.. can getting a thicker HG be an alternative instead of notching just wondering my pockets aren't deep xD

"plans for summer" (in god i trust)lol
sr16 or n1 pistons stock bore (cyl walls look clean in there still
has oem cross hatching)
stock rods or if i can get a good deal on eagle h beams ...
acl calico coated bearings
vet HG specs unkown..?ideas ne1..? or it only comes in one size
20v outer springs + titanium retainers (BC or ST) ideas any one?
2012-01-18 06:21:37
#28
I say for a solid budget build, coated sr16 or n1 pistons, I prefer N1 myself but if you can find a deal on some used sr16s and send them out to be coated you will save some money there also. I would use stock rods and save money there. Don't bother with more than stock valve springs if you are only running N1 cams, you will save time and money there. Keep the head gasket and bearings you were going to run. Get a tri-y b18 header modded or look for a good deal on a used 4-1. Not sure what you are running for an ecu but get a tunable one of some sort. The key to making power on these high compression builds is the tuning and the header. Please don't go through all this work and run an ssac copy. A nice intake manifold down the line will make a really nice setup. I figure the money I saved you not using aftermarket rods and springs & retainers with extra valve springs you could buy a nice wet nitrous setup and have a car that is fun to drive but balls to the wall (for a budget street car) when you want it. I can't stress enough header and tunable ecu!
That and a bottle, lol
2012-01-18 06:45:33
#29
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
I say for a solid budget build, coated sr16 or n1 pistons, I prefer N1 myself but if you can find a deal on some used sr16s and send them out to be coated you will save some money there also. I would use stock rods and save money there. Don't bother with more than stock valve springs if you are only running N1 cams, you will save time and money there. Keep the head gasket and bearings you were going to run. Get a tri-y b18 header modded or look for a good deal on a used 4-1. Not sure what you are running for an ecu but get a tunable one of some sort. The key to making power on these high compression builds is the tuning and the header. Please don't go through all this work and run an ssac copy. A nice intake manifold down the line will make a really nice setup. I figure the money I saved you not using aftermarket rods and springs & retainers with extra valve springs you could buy a nice wet nitrous setup and have a car that is fun to drive but balls to the wall (for a budget street car) when you want it. I can't stress enough header and tunable ecu!
That and a bottle, lol




i was looking into that nismotronic nemu ecu package looks very nice and good price for all the things that can be done.. one of my main concerns is over revving equaling to carnage like my first ve cracked in half (stock) so in your own opinion could 20v outer springs and some ti retainers hold and be reliable i mean i kno most of the power isnt made that high but that peace of mind is good to kno b4 $ is put into this low buck n/a set up
2012-01-18 06:57:23
#30
In my opinion, unless you are revving above 8000 rpms all the time stock springs and retainers are the way to go with N1 cams. The N1 springs had lighter spring pressure than the oe sr20ve ones and they had no issue going to 9k and beyond so in a sense, o.e. sr20ve springs are an upgrade, lol. I would just leave the stock valvetrain unless you change to a more aggressive cam setup and then do it all at once since it can be done in the car. I have seen people running n1 cams rev to 9500 every day and have no issues. Like I said 8k all day and a few blasts a day to 9k plus won't hurt anything. I know it is piece of mind to some people but to me if it worked for Nissan, it works for me. The ramp angle on the N1 cams is not very aggressive which is why you can get away with revving so high with lower spring pressure. I wouldn't run 20v outer springs either since it is just an extra thing that can go wrong when installing. Keep things as simple as possible. The ecu you are looking at is perfect for your setup. Just have a rev limiter set to anywhere between 8 & 9k and you should be find and not ruining any engines. I know once it happens to you once people become a little paranoid but with a simple set up like I suggested, you have no need to be. The simpler the better. Also, not sure what header you are running now but a good header is key to making good power on a simple setup like this. A 20v header is a nice option or a JMR as much as I am a Jun fan makes good numbers and is reasonably priced and since Stratton is the one selling them I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him. Tuning and header, tuning and header, tuning and header! I think I got that out of my system.
Last edited by totaled200ser on 2012-01-18 at 07-03-47.
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