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Thread: vvl rpm kick in

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Posts: 11-20 of 21
2011-09-27 13:23:32
#11
I think tsuruser is still selling his greddy mss. That's one of the best devices for switching cams.

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2011-09-28 01:58:07
#12
Mine pops at 5500 with the msd 8969. Thats where i've got them both set to..
2011-09-28 03:24:25
#13
if you want a near seamless transition....
and smooth power band, switch the cams separately. intake 1st, then exhaust. exact points depend on YOUR setup.
if you went ve just for the cam switching power rush, do them together for more effect
2011-09-28 03:42:59
#14
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL


^ MSD 8969 - Controls both cams at the same time as there is only 1 output. Like wayne said a dyno is always the best bet to figure out where your low cams start to drop off. The low cam is a pretty solid cam and can give give you power past 5000 RPM no problem. I think the factory switch points for the cams are in the high 5000 range for intake and 6200 for exhaust. I may be wrong on my numbers but the point being you do not have to switch them at 4500 if you don't want to. If the car is a DD and you don't want to be running on the high cam all the time because of gas mileage then switch it higher. If you don't care about gas mileage switch it lower. If you switch it really low though, as in 4000 RPM, I have seen it done even lower, your power will drop off faster up top. I have not done this personally but I have read others experimenting with this early switch.

I switch my cams usually at 5000, sometimes at 4800 and occasionally at 5200. They feel the best to me at 5000. I have run on the low cams past 6000 and not noticed any valve float but I believe power starts to drop off, on my car anyway, around 5800-6100 RPM.

The Granatelli window switch can control the cam solenoids seperately.
The Greddy MSS controls seperately.
Apex-i VAFC changes solenoids at the same time.
MSD 8969 changes solenoids at the same time.
There are many other switches as well.

I use a Honda specific Apex-i VAFC to change mine at the same time with no problems at all!


Lol your trying to tell me that by switching the cams lower that the top end power will drop off sooner? That's some shit haha
2011-09-28 04:10:14
#15
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL


^ MSD 8969 - Controls both cams at the same time as there is only 1 output. Like wayne said a dyno is always the best bet to figure out where your low cams start to drop off. The low cam is a pretty solid cam and can give give you power past 5000 RPM no problem. I think the factory switch points for the cams are in the high 5000 range for intake and 6200 for exhaust. I may be wrong on my numbers but the point being you do not have to switch them at 4500 if you don't want to. If the car is a DD and you don't want to be running on the high cam all the time because of gas mileage then switch it higher. If you don't care about gas mileage switch it lower. If you switch it really low though, as in 4000 RPM, I have seen it done even lower, your power will drop off faster up top. I have not done this personally but I have read others experimenting with this early switch.

I switch my cams usually at 5000, sometimes at 4800 and occasionally at 5200. They feel the best to me at 5000. I have run on the low cams past 6000 and not noticed any valve float but I believe power starts to drop off, on my car anyway, around 5800-6100 RPM.

The Granatelli window switch can control the cam solenoids seperately.
The Greddy MSS controls seperately.
Apex-i VAFC changes solenoids at the same time.
MSD 8969 changes solenoids at the same time.
There are many other switches as well.

I use a Honda specific Apex-i VAFC to change mine at the same time with no problems at all!


Originally Posted by cory
Lol your trying to tell me that by switching the cams lower that the top end power will drop off sooner? That's some shit haha


Nope, not trying to tell you anything. You have way more SR experience than I do. This I know. Like I said in bold, I had not done this personally. But I was tired when I typed that after a long day. Now that I re-read it, it does sound stupid. The smaller and bigger cam lobes are what they are now matter when you change from hi to low. Regardless of when you change over to the high cam it will hold to the same power. Yes, agreed.

I do not mind being corrected and I wouldn't want to give out misinformation. Thanks for pointing it out! I will edit accordingly!

I have read on this forum and the old one about issues with switching too early but I can honestly say I don't remember the tone or specific nature of the issues.
2011-09-28 05:57:43
#16
no switching too early will lose power where you switched them at. Stock cams like about 4700-4800 easy as that, dyno proven. There are little variables like header, exhaust size, intake and other modifications. But for a stock ve w/ i/h/e setup 4700-4800 is best.
2011-09-28 07:35:13
#17
The idea behind VVL / Vtec is that you can make power top end without sacrificing low end power. Switching high-lobes "too soon" will defeat that purpose. Just like throwing HUGE cams in a motor, you will likely lose a lot of your bottom end, while your top end will scream when given more timing / air / fuel. Not to mention that switching cams low enough to where you are always getting into high-lobes without driving hard, will kill your mileage. Like the guys said, you'll find the sweet spot on the dyno. The smooth transition that is made by switching the cams independently is usually best for overall performance along the entire range. Kinda where VVL shines over Vtakkk
2012-03-26 08:16:02
#18
So what rpm's does yours pop at? All my ve buddys are popping at different rpms for each cam also.
2012-03-26 08:19:04
#19
Just pop them both at the same time till you dyno it. Stock Sr20ve like it around 4900rpm.
2012-03-29 14:45:50
#20
you know i started to activate mine at 4800 and felt really different from activating it at 5200.. 5200 felt a smoother increase in power, atleast for my engine it did.. Only way to actually tell is how everyone's been saying. DYNO, and tune that thing while your at it.
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