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Thread: I want to build an sr20 ve

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Posts: 21-30 of 44
2011-08-15 04:00:35
#21
Originally Posted by STRATTON
my advice and you can take it for what its worth.

ive seen every set up there is from stock to mild to wild.

keep it simple. keep it simple. keep it simple.

sr20ve
87mm 13:1 piston
stock intake mani and n1 tb
n1 cams or kelfords
custom header
short geared transmission-16ve or b13 de tranny with the maz gear.

go run mid 12's with reliability and pump gas..

anything more is triple the money, time and effort and isnt for your average person.

stratton.


dumb Q,
can you run 87mm piston w/0 sleeving the block?
2011-08-15 04:14:47
#22
Originally Posted by STRATTON
my advice and you can take it for what its worth.

ive seen every set up there is from stock to mild to wild.

keep it simple. keep it simple. keep it simple.

sr20ve
87mm 13:1 piston
stock intake mani and n1 tb
n1 cams or kelfords
custom header
short geared transmission-16ve or b13 de tranny with the maz gear.

go run mid 12's with reliability and pump gas..

anything more is triple the money, time and effort and isnt for your average person.

stratton.


Agreed.... I would go with the Kelfords unless you get a good deal on N1's as long as you go with the suggested compression. If you want go more, just go overbore and don't bother with the 92mm crank. That should save you some money and put you in the 11's range for the 1/4. You will have a powerband that will hold higher in the rev range and probably be able to hold 3rd in the 1/4. Depends on how fast you want to go.... mid to low 12's or into the 11's. Keep in mind the difference in cost is huge. Most machine shops do not do the re-sleveing of the sr20 correctly and it ends up costing you in the long run. I think a 2.3 is great but for the difference in cost a 2.1 with all the tricks is a better cost per doller build. Look at Cory's builds through the years and his track times. You should be able to get around 230whp on an 87mm with the right intake manifold and header (Maybe 230 with stock intake mani and N1 throttle body with a good 4-1 or more with custom intake mani and which header u choose depending on budget). To keep the cost down you may want to use a B18 tri-y modded to fit the sr20 as they should be good to somewhere around that power level and you won't have to spend the money for a nice 4-1. That will save u enough to get a nice intake manifold made. I personally would like to get custom pistons and do an 88mm build on stock stroke. That is an option also but any larger you will need to have the block re-sleeved and that is when the money starts adding up. Give us your budget and we can help you out more. Good luck, n/a requires some patience.
Drew
Drew
2011-08-15 04:17:30
#23
88mm on stock block is what I hear is the max.
2011-08-15 04:33:15
#24
Originally Posted by Chefjrod1
No but my buddy does. I am from the south. This is what rednecks do man.


rednecks build sr20's?! damn i thought i was the only one
2011-08-15 05:04:21
#25
Originally Posted by Boostlee
http://www.sr20-forum.com/sentra-se-r/48504-im-getting-my-ser-saturday.html

Are you two related??


was thinking the same thing
2011-08-15 05:37:43
#26
Not trying jack your thread but What the highest Compression can you run on 91 octane
2011-08-15 06:01:29
#27
11's prob 12's. @ SR16 piston levels it's very tricky and one false move can be the end.
2011-08-15 08:37:14
#28
Originally Posted by STRATTON
my advice and you can take it for what its worth.

ive seen every set up there is from stock to mild to wild.

keep it simple. keep it simple. keep it simple.

sr20ve
87mm 13:1 piston
stock intake mani and n1 tb
n1 cams or kelfords
custom header
short geared transmission-16ve or b13 de tranny with the maz gear.

go run mid 12's with reliability and pump gas..

anything more is triple the money, time and effort and isnt for your average person.

stratton.

Sounds like real solid advice thanks for not b.sing around and telling me something that I can actually look into.
2011-08-15 08:45:30
#29
Originally Posted by morgans432
rednecks build sr20's?! damn i thought i was the only one


Haha... A redneck in central nj? How does that happen? It is surprising what 3 half brains can come up with around here.
2011-08-15 08:50:43
#30
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
Agreed.... I would go with the Kelfords unless you get a good deal on N1's as long as you go with the suggested compression. If you want go more, just go overbore and don't bother with the 92mm crank. That should save you some money and put you in the 11's range for the 1/4. You will have a powerband that will hold higher in the rev range and probably be able to hold 3rd in the 1/4. Depends on how fast you want to go.... mid to low 12's or into the 11's. Keep in mind the difference in cost is huge. Most machine shops do not do the re-sleveing of the sr20 correctly and it ends up costing you in the long run. I think a 2.3 is great but for the difference in cost a 2.1 with all the tricks is a better cost per doller build. Look at Cory's builds through the years and his track times. You should be able to get around 230whp on an 87mm with the right intake manifold and header (Maybe 230 with stock intake mani and N1 throttle body with a good 4-1 or more with custom intake mani and which header u choose depending on budget). To keep the cost down you may want to use a B18 tri-y modded to fit the sr20 as they should be good to somewhere around that power level and you won't have to spend the money for a nice 4-1. That will save u enough to get a nice intake manifold made. I personally would like to get custom pistons and do an 88mm build on stock stroke. That is an option also but any larger you will need to have the block re-sleeved and that is when the money starts adding up. Give us your budget and we can help you out more. Good luck, n/a requires some patience.
Drew
Drew

Engine alone I am willing to spend quite a bit in the long haul. Not sure of an actual dollar amount but whatever it takes to have a streetable 12 second car is what I am looking for. I am more interested in short track auto cross than drag if that helps you any better.
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