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Thread: Intake Piping and TB for the SR20VE

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Posts: 1-10 of 10
2008-03-14 13:56:12
#1
Intake Piping and TB for the SR20VE
I have been browsing on the old forum for the past hour, and I just got fed up with all the ads, and I can't seem to find the exact answer I am looking for.

Right now, I only have a pop charger and the stock VE accordeon pipe connected to the VE TB. There are two things I would wish to do, for better overall driveability (I drive long distances to get to tracks) and getting rid of the ugly stock rubber intake pipe.

So, first of all, from what I read on the old forum, a B14 2.0L short ram should work to replace the accordeon pipe. I just want to make sure, is it 3 inches in diameter, just like the VE pipe? It just says on the old forum that it should fit, but nothing is mentioned about diameter.

Secondly, I currently have a B14 TB sitting at home. I plan to install it with the goal of getting the cruise control back. From the looks of things, the TB appears to be the same in diameter. So, is there any advantage to running the VE TB other than the better control over the cold idle?

I'll keep on searching, but if you could be kind enough to provide me with an answer...

EDIT: From searching around the old site, I see that the short ram for a B14 is indeed the correct diameter. Now, I just need to figure out if I'll be losing power if I am to use the B14 TB instead of the VE one.
2008-03-14 15:30:45
#2
The intake will work without a problem. The DE TB bore and bolt pattern is the same as a stock VE so you can transfer that too which means there shouldn't be any power loss or gain between the two.

I don't recall how the B15 throttle cables are run but I assume you already tried matching up the the butterfly pullies on the stock VE TB to the B15 cables right? Again, I am unfamiliar with how the B15 cables are run but the only thing you should need to make the cruise work is to fabricate a small bracket for the throttle cable guides which can be done with washers for spacers and angle steel.

Assuming that you have the VE with all the stock intake parts and switch to the B14, you may have to address the coolant hoses for cold idle to the TB. If you decide you want to keep the coolant for cold idle you probably have to reroute and use some sort of reducer because I *think* that the B14 cold idle coolant nipples are smaller. But if you decide to do away with the cold idle coolant then you will have to cap off the stock VE coolant lines to the TB.

Hope that makes some sense. If anyone feels that I missed something please correct me if I'm wrong.

-L
2008-03-14 15:47:54
#3
Thanks for the info. I was reluctant at first, fearing I would loose a bit of power, but worse comes to worst, I'll just put the VE TB back on. It's not like it's a 5-hour job either. Your post does reassure me though. I now know I'm not doing something stupid...

As for running the CC cable to the VE TB, the one I have does not have a spot for the cruise control to connect to. This is why I want to swap them out. I already have the spare B14 TB in my garage, so it's just a matter of routing the water hoses now.

I noticed the coolant lines were smaller when comparing the 2 as well. I will be getting some reducers, so I can run the coolant through. I drive the car in the winter, so I want some heat to get to the TB.
2008-03-14 16:45:45
#4
Originally Posted by KrAsH

As for running the CC cable to the VE TB, the one I have does not have a spot for the cruise control to connect to. This is why I want to swap them out.


Yep. That's what I assumed. But I wasn't familiar enough with the B15 setup to say for sure. Other than figuring out the coolant lines and cable guides, it should be a straight forward install.

-L
2008-03-14 22:35:50
#5
Originally Posted by KrAsH
Thanks for the info. I was reluctant at first, fearing I would loose a bit of power, but worse comes to worst, I'll just put the VE TB back on. It's not like it's a 5-hour job either. Your post does reassure me though. I now know I'm not doing something stupid...

As for running the CC cable to the VE TB, the one I have does not have a spot for the cruise control to connect to. This is why I want to swap them out. I already have the spare B14 TB in my garage, so it's just a matter of routing the water hoses now.

I noticed the coolant lines were smaller when comparing the 2 as well. I will be getting some reducers, so I can run the coolant through. I drive the car in the winter, so I want some heat to get to the TB.


You can always just take the pulleys, spring, and nut off the b14 tb and put them on the VE tb if you want.
2008-03-14 23:53:21
#6
Originally Posted by jer_760
You can always just take the pulleys, spring, and nut off the b14 tb and put them on the VE tb if you want.


All that transfers over? Cool. That's a trick that's new to me. Good tip.

That saves a ton of time trying to figure out the coolant lines and what not.

You don't have to dissemble the actual butterfly valve do you? Because if you did I would recommend loctiting the nuts inside while you put it back together. Some people have had them free themselves and get sucked into the manifold.

-L
2008-03-15 05:43:26
#7
Krash, since you're living in Quebec you definitely need the coolant hoses attached to warm up your throttle body. You definitely can use the B14 throttle body with your cruise pulley attached as a direct fit on the VE manifold. Throttle body diameter is virtually the same on both DE and VE so no power difference there. On my VE I used the throttle body w/cruise off my OEM 94 lowport motor which is the same as your B14 lowport TB w/ cruise. After 4 years no issues whatsoever. Since I live here in AZ I capped off my coolant lines on my TB. A trick that may work is that you can take vacuum hose or the hose that fits the B14 TB coolant lines and slip a 1/2 to 1" piece on the ends. Since the VE coolant line hose is larger in diameter use dish soap to lube the inside of the hose and slip that end over the B14 coolant lines that have the prefitted hose on the ends. Seen this done on a VE swap a while back, still going strong with no leaks. He also used a good set of hose clamps to button things up. Hope this helps.....
2008-03-16 08:02:12
#8
Originally Posted by jer_760
You can always just take the pulleys, spring, and nut off the b14 tb and put them on the VE tb if you want.

Wow, I had no idea about this. I have been running my b14 TB on my ve 10k miles now. I do remember have to do some adjusting to get the CC to work.
2008-03-17 19:05:22
#9
Originally Posted by jer_760
You can always just take the pulleys, spring, and nut off the b14 tb and put them on the VE tb if you want.

I've actually fooled around a bit with the B15 pulleys, and they didn't seem to fit. Perhaps the B14 ones would. It could be a good option, although changing TBs is not that complicated either.
2008-03-17 19:48:37
#10
Yea, changing the tb is a piece of cake also.
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