Thread: Dutch SR20VE dyno'ed - your opinions

Yeah deff looks like your switching to early

Lol, you REALLY need to adjust the cam switchover points :P.

You can clearly see the 2 little peaks after which the cams switch.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Intake should be set a little later, and you should then do another run to see when the Exhaust should switch. You'll get a better powerband from that.

Timing for a STOCK SR20VE is 5*. People bump them up to 10-12-ish. Or so I've read.

Like I said, VVL-Controllers FTW.

EDIT: Lol, I began typing before Ben posted, but I go distracted searching for timing info :P.

Seems that some even crank up the timing to 18*. So 5* is pretty... Conservative.

Also you're running a 8200 revlimit, but power drops at 8090?

That the revlimit is set to 8200 rpm doesnt mean I need to rev all the way up there. You can only tweak/tune it when you have graphs like this so it's not really bad to have a less positive graph. It'll show what to improve and where.

I cant imagine people are running 18 degree on a VE with a VE ECU imho.

Btw, here's a picture of my spark plug which is the BKR7EIX

Those plugs look surprisingly normal for a plug that's too cold. You must do a lot of WOT and not a lot of cruising/idling?

shame you didn't get a printout of the runs with high cams not kicking in, showed ya where the low cams peaked, which was a lot higher than what his switchover points are set at...was a shame with the setup he has, he couldn't move the cam switchover points...

thats on the SR16s know for sure as my N1 has a factory sticker under the hood with Base idle RPM and Timing

Thats a really sloppy looking dyno graph, you need some serious tuning!

you can only do so much, if you can't change came switchover points

D'oh, great comment. Why did I start this topic in the first place Cpt Obvious.

It's not a daily driver, more of a weekend (track) warrior. If I drive it it sees the redline multiple times.