Thread: Building A Back Up Motor And Using The Best Of Each VE Motor

I am going to build a combination of VVL motors as a back up motor and see what happens. I will be using N1 parts, SR20VE parts and 20V parts. All these pasrts are coming from motors I have parted out in the past. The only new part will eb Manley rods, bearings and headgasket.

Parts List below

N1 cams
N1 pistons ( Swain Tech Coated )
20V Head ( Center divider in intake port moved back like SR20VE head )
20V headgasket
4 counter weight crank
Manley rods ( lightest rod out there for the money )


Here are my reasons. N1 cams are the besy factoyr cam, N1 pistons should give 12.5 to 1 compression plus the piston comes with the lightest piston pin. Cerami coated the top of the piston to stop detonation. 20V head because of the the thinner 4.5 vs 6 mm valves. The 20V lacks top ebd flow because of the elongates port center divider so I am going to bring it down to P11 SR20VE specs. 20V metal headgsket as it is the best gasket out there for the job. I will be using the 4 counter weight crank to because the crank is 6 pounds lighter than the 8 counterweight crank in the 20V. Last Manley rods because they are cheap and lighter than stock.


I am hoping for a motor that revs faster becasue of lighter weight rods and crank. I am also hoping for more peak WHP because of N1 pistons and also hoping the power hold out better because of more head flow from reducing the divider.

The motor should make 225 WHP and 165 LB Ft Torque. I am basing these figures from my motors 215-216 WHP present numbers.

My car on street tires runs 104-105 MPH at Moroso. I am hoping for the car to run 106-107 MPH on street tires but will not know for a while.

If you need somewhere to keep your back-up engine, I have one chassis that can be used.... that is great sounding Dre.

How about balancing the moving parts? 4 cylinder engines rev a lot smoother with a full balance job.

Wouldn't just using the 8 counterweight crank and stomaching those 6 pounds be better than the 4CW crank (as far as balance is concerned)

Balancing a motor should be done on every build, thats what I do. I prefer an 8 CWC but I am trying something out for fun and I am sure the motor will hold up for atleast 100,000 miles which is a long time for me considering my car has 70,000 miles

No. You can balance a 4cw crank just fine. The only difference will be harmonics which will distort the crank at mains 2 and 4 and "shorten" their life. Mains 1, 3, and 5 will have no significant difference in life.

Find me a 4cw motor that has the main bearings go out before the rod bearings and let me know how much it shortened the life.... Cause I haven't seen it.

^Interesting.

If one were building similar would using standard 16ve pistons be a viable alternative or would the small gains from the higher comp be negligible compared to the dangers of valve/piston contact if not using correct fuel?

Are you talking about a full dynamic balance of the crank assembly with pulley, clutch and flywheel? Knife edging is not a true balance. Do you match the big ends and small ends of the rods to make the CG of all of them the same?

So is a 20v head along with its intake manifold with the port work you talk about(20ve spec) better than a normal 20ve head and intake manifold?