Thread: super retard dizzy to get normal timing

Yeah I meant adjust both shafts but not just with the number of teeth between the cam sprocket marks but relative to the head as can be seen at this link: A faster way to change the timing chain, while in car? : SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)
I didn't use this method when building my engine as I set it on the factory marks top and bottom but this diagram does in fact line up irrespective of chain marks provided you are at TDC.

How did the crank get off one tooth? That is what I have to know.

As more and more people respond, I am getting more and more confused...

Also, I have the stock ECU back in there currently. The timing is doing the exact same thing when I try to do it without the consult unit.

This is no longer a JWT ECU only thing. I did not try the G20 ecu but I know it will do the same.

If totaled200ser is right, I am in for a valve cover pop. No problem with doing so. I need him to be 110% sure. Can I not ask for that?

Because this is truly eating me away at my core. I see what you are saying about the crank pulley and the teeth associated with the crank are different. (I did not realize that until you mentioned it to me). If it is off one tooth as you say it is, I cannot just change the pulley to remedy it. I have to do what you are saying and adjust the cams to make up for the crank being off. I know my cam gears and the timing chain are correct. I need to move the marks on the cam gear (clockwise if looking from the Right Hand side of the car towards the engine) to the left of the marks on the chain. Or as you said, rotate both the cam gears and cams one tooth toward the firewall. But, considering it is pulling a valve cover or the timing chain cover, the valve cover is clearly the best choice.

Also, I just want the timing to be at 15*. I do not want anything else. I just want 15* and nothing more or less. I wish I never moved that fucking thing to begin with....

P.S. I am not being lazy, just ignorant. I have been working 12 hours a day for the past few days. I do not have time to wrench right now, this second, today. When I can, I will. I daily drive this car and need it operating all the time. I can get on a PC and type, eat, sleep and go back to work. Of all things, everyone here knows I am not lazy. I have done everything on my car, by myself (with my Dad by my side) and that is all to it.

Finally: If I do this, totaled200ser, will the pulley show me the correct timing? And, How did this happen? When I changed cams, I blocked that thing and it did not move at all. When I checked the timing afterwards, it was STILL proper. It changed somewhere around the time when I got the JWT ECU. I had problems with that ECU at first, forget to set timing back to 15* and it was in self-diag mode for days. Could the chain being worn-out be indicative of the chain jumping the tooth on the crank gear?

I think you said earlier that you did a cam change. The chain would not just jump a tooth, it would have had to have happened when things were being changed and the tensioner was out. It would be quite hard to get the chain to skip a tooth on the crank sprocket on the VE as there is a shroud around there to stop it. Did you by chance rotate the engine with the cams out? If so any marks you put on the chain would be out so this is one possiblity.

I would rotate the enginer to TDC assuming your pully is OK and remove the rocker cover then compare to the diagram I posted on that other forum. If it looks like the cams are both out by 1 tooth then you should be able to see so just remover the tensioner and the cam sprockets one at a time to fix it. You don't just want 15degBTDC, you also want to make sure the cams and crank are correctly aligned.

The tensioner never came out when I changed cams and I blocked it with a wooden block. I know the chain and the gears both had marks from Nissan (not in paint, but marks on each, respectively to indicate there relationship). I know these were on point before and during and after the swap. I remember it like yesterday, I swear to you all.

No I did not rotate the engine with the cams out. I consistently checked the marks each time I made adjustments in the valvetrain.

I will pull the valve cover when I get a new valve cover gasket in my hands (I am not using the same one I just installed recently, and once again, I cannot tolerate ONE DAY of down time)

I will take pics when I do this or just a video. Thank you, please teach me some more totaled200ser. I thank you and everyone else who has helped so far with this.

Also, moles. I printed that image out, I remember seeing it prior to my swap, but to be honest, I did not physically count those teeth and match to the dot on the gears. I saw the words NISSAN on two links and they matched to the dots.

Once again, much appreciated. Look forward to a thread I will create after I find my well, findings, and report back to the forum.

Also, I apologize to the forum and lynch for essentially, jacking or derailing this thread. It is semi-on target, just not for lynch. For dizzy timing issues, that is why I started to post. I know lynch loves his car, and so do I.

hey bud no worries here, its best to keep all this info in 1 place rather then scatterd about the forum..

i really hope we can fix your problem..

Thank you, ultimately, I have to fix it myself. Which is not a problem, I have done it for 6 years, I will do it again and again until the body decides to rust away to nothingness and leave me with an engine and transmission.

But I could not have attempted figured it out without the help of those who responded on here.

I am gonna get a new valve cover gasket, pop it, and see what is up.