Thread: My VE Overheated!!!>>>Problem fixed...: VACUM LEAK???:..

So I was going home sat night, and I was messing aroud with a new model challenger. This went on the highway for a good 2 -4 miles, and all that time I was near my 8k red line.

When I got off the highway, my car started to smoke from underneath the hood. I though mabey the radiator cap had busted or something. Beeing so close to getting home, I kept driving watching the temp guage slowly rise.

Finnally the car started to loose power and I just pulled over and called a tow- truck to take me home.

Next morning I check the car and the rear hose that goes from the rear of the water pump to the Zinc coated metal tubes in the back had a big cut in it.
The car turns on fine and no sign of water in the oil, (although it's low in oil )
It made no wierd noises and seems to be ok.

Went to the local parts store and I managed to find one that fit, once I cut it to the proper size.

I once again filled it with water only to see it drip out from wat I thought was the crank pulley. WRONG It's leaking from the bottom part of the water pump.

So mi question is this, can I use the DE water pump??? Or should I go with a newer style RR water pump??

I know I should just get one from greg V but It's my DD and I'm a little tight on money and time.

Thanks guys

yes you can use a De water pump not sure about rr one
i would replace it to be on the safe side
hope this helps

You can use a DE one, the RR is more suited for the VE though since the 99-01RR and VE blocks are very similar and have 4cw cranks. They should cost about the same though. Hope you dodged a bullet. You need to replace the other hose very soon, since it's possible the same thing will happen to it. Better to replace the hose than replace the motor. My guess is that if you lost power you may have damaged it already.

Well I put in a new 00 RR water pump in yesterday, only to find out that I probably blew the head gasket.

The overflow tank boils, and I pulled the dip-stick out and there was a slight sign of water in the oil..

I see the big VE builds out there make me whant to go BIG, but this is my DD and right now I can't afford that.

What do you guys think, should I ,

A.)buy a new VE head gasket and send the head to be checked and call it a day??

B.) Just get another VE and swap it in.

The reason for "B" is that these motors are not that expenssive (almost the same $ for the gasket repair). And I dont whant the head to be resurfaced because I'm affraid the cam timing will be off due to the different height..

Can any one shine some light on this, am I incorrect??? Can I resurface the Head without having to worry about, cam timing, valve to piston c learance ect ect...

A.

Getting a 4cyl head decked in TX is going to be CHEAP. I paid $25 on average to resurface heads in El Paso, TX.

Then get a VET headgasket, some new head bolts, and rock out.

Oh and for what it's worth, if there's not much warpage, it won't affect your timing at all. Something like .005" of shaved material would equal to damn near nothing, which you can always adjust with your distributor anyway.

Do the headgasket yourself. If you take it to a shop they're going to rape you, no way around it. Better pull the FSM and learn how to replace it.

Thanks for the input Cliff,

I have put thoghether my old DE engine myself, but I have never done it to a VE, seems to be a little more involved.

Now that I think about it mabey the Tensioner will make up for the slack??

Can I get the FSM here??? Is it VE specific?

Honestly, I would weigh the actual cost of each. If it's really close, I'd just buy another Ve, that way, u can have all spare parts incase you over rev or something like that. Just my .02

Option a buddy ... It's alot easier pulling the head then the motor but if there wasn't oo much water in the oil I'm sure ur bearings are good ... But if u do buy another ve let me know I'll buy that bottom end off u