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Thread: SR20VE 4-2-1 "budget" header

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Posts: 391-400 of 1,123
2009-02-06 23:16:50
Originally Posted by BenFenner
People wouldn't believe the kind of manipulation dyno operators can (and will) do to control the numbers coming out of their shop. SAE correction, if I understand it correctly, when applied, should force the dyno to spit out numbers that can be compared to others, and that actually mean something.

Last dyno I went to they left the air temp sensor out in open air claiming that the numbers were inflated when it was put near the air filter (no shіt), and further inflated if they put it by the exhaust manifold (doubly no shіt). That's the way the device was designed. Just because you don't like the numbers it puts out, doesn't mean you mess with the equipment until you're happy. Those air temps are needed for the correction calculations.
Sorry for the rant.

The place I was talking about had a Dyno Dynamics. It read 25% too low (because they failed to probe the air temps properly). We have a local Mustang dyno that knows how to run it properly and thank God we can go there.

haha, yeah, another shop here had a few cars making really really good power, almost too good. At the track they were running like they had 40-50hp less. They were having the same problem with their Air temp probe. It was right next to the computer exhaust fan so it was always like 90 deg out, when it would be more like 50 or so.
2009-02-07 12:30:56
The dyno the Honda guys were posting sheets from is a Dyno Torque exactly the same as the one we use but we've since found out that it's notorious for reading stupidly high as they calibrate it wrong. Funny how those guys still want to flash those dyno sheets even after they've been shown that they're BS.

Even worse is the dickhead who overhears you talking about cars & then after asking what you've got & how much power it has goes - "What? Thats slow, my (insert standard POS here) makes xxxx kw in stock form". Try explaining the difference between actual dynoed wkw & factory stated figures to a moron! I'm sure many of you have had the same experience.

Enough ranting, back on topic

I'm very interested in seeing the ASP vs Fujitsubo test as Fuji is the main header we use here. I'd love if they could also be dynoed against a Fuji header which has had the secondaries shortened but most folks wont take a hacksaw to their Fujis.

On the subject of exhaust size that some of you may find interesting - last weekend Paul (the Alienprobe) tuned my car using a wideband & datalogger. I have a full 3" mandrel bent system with no cat, a single resonator (2 were louder!) & straight though muffler. After tuning, I bolted a 2.5" straight-through muffler on, making it 2.5" fom the rear axle back, & went out & did a couple of power runs with the datalogger.

The logs from the 2 final power runs with the 3" system & the 2 with the 2.5" muffler bolted on were virtually identical but the difference in noise was huge. The 2.5" muffler is so much quieter. We're due to finish the tune & play with cam timing on a dyno in the next couple of weeks so if we have time, I'll try it again & see if the dyno agrees with the datalogger.

How much work does your car need before it's back on the road Charles, are you close to finished? Are you building a big displacement engine or staying 2L?
2009-02-07 16:07:46
Originally Posted by Clint

How much work does your car need before it's back on the road Charles, are you close to finished? Are you building a big displacement engine or staying 2L?

Haha, i've seen pics. Last time I seen it barely looked like a car, but you know Snickers has something up his sleeve. It's good to know about the 2.5" vs 3" too. I'd like to hear more on this if you can.
2009-02-07 17:04:33
There is already a dyno between an ASP header and a Fuji but that was a different version ASP.

The individual that has the fuji up here is a bit difficult to get ahold of.

How much is a Fuji down under vs an ASP with the current exchange rate?
2009-02-07 18:09:39
Exactly the same price... in fact the ASP would probably come in about $50 cheaper but both are pretty much out of reach of your average Kiwi. The Fujis are currently $1,800 NZD (were $900-$1,000 this time last year) & the ASP would cost $1,750 NZD landed & tax paid. As a comparison, a VE engine is $700 - $900 NZD so it's pretty hard to find folks who will spend twice as much on a header than they would on the whole engine.

Getting a custom set of 4-2-1 headers with collectors made by a reputable person here is about $1,500NZD including materials but I would sooner pay the extra $250 & get an ASP as very few people understand our engine & Charles is one of those who do.

The reason I would love to see these dynoed against Fujis with shortened secondaries is because both Amdeman & I have chopped ours & found that we can keep making power 600rpm - 1000rpm higher than we were on standard secondaries... Go on somebody in the USA, give it a go - you can always weld the section back in if you don't like it! They'll still be a compromise compared to the ASP header but you may pick up some power.
2009-02-09 04:31:46
Props to Mr. Charles for making kick ass headers.

A local guy just put down 216hp today with the original ASP 4-1

1st Pull.

Didnt wait to see his final #'s but I heard it was quite impressive.
2009-02-09 07:18:43

I would like to upgrade to full merge collectors.

Let me know if this is a possibility please.

2009-02-10 04:59:57
2009-02-11 00:55:43
OK where do I send the money order?
2009-02-11 04:59:54
Snickers, will u be correcting the runner that is shorter than the other 3?

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