Thread: Thoughts on potential ve+t setup

you can easily do that on a VE with stock cams.

yeah i figured why not do both the intake and exhaust porting, it defintly wont hurt it, more the better. Not gonna go extreem with it just enought to pick up some decent flow and especially through the exhaust port. I think it will have a nice advantage over a stock head even though they flow quite well. But i figure since i will have it off ill go ahead and do it. Yeah and good advice on the cam degree, i have been looking around at some setups and noticed some people that are running the stock 20ve cams are using those specs. Definetly note taken. The stock cams have plenty of lift to flow well with turbo its just that overlap is what kills it.[/QUOTE]

oh sorry buddy i wasn't too clear with my post, i was meaning go 1mm oversize on the in and 2mm oversize on the ex, as the ve valves are 6mm and the det's are 7mm, so going 2mm on the ex brings it to +1mm compared with the det.

cam degreeing i dont know yet...i will find out on the dyno

I am betting with a nice tubular manifold the 20ve's will outshine the vet's up top, but the vets will be better till high lobe kicks in

also a nice cams spec for vet to try would be the 20v low lobe in, vet low lobe ex, tomei 270deg 12.5mm high in, and the solid 280deg 12.5mm high ex profile would be nice. Just need someone to make them

I believe the same way, however I am not an advocate for revving really high to make power. It just doesn't work for me. RPM stands for "Ruins people's motors". You can rev really high and make tons of power, but not as reliably.

I want a killer powerband with over 200whp available under 4k. You can rev much higher while making power with the stock cams, but you need valve springs, retainers, and a standalone to do it effectively. What separates a street car from a race car is whether it will pass your local safety/IM testing every year.

I would love a setup like the 20V low lobes and the Tomei big cams. You would have to raise the lift on the low lobes slightly to compensate for the big jump but it would be a good cam combo. I would like to see what a stock sr20ve head would do with just sr16ve cams and a gt4202r. On a built bottom end the power would be incredible for a drag car.

note that I have springs, and a fully tunable ecu

leaning further away from the turbo option until we can sort out something gearbox wise

well if you decide to do that little set up, use the s15 injectors. and exactly what you posted and it's all in tuning. it's not on what parts you add, yeah you'll make power but if you dont tune not only you're not gonna gain the power you want, but you're hurting the motor cuz nothing is insinc. anyways, i see 300whp with that set up done right if not more

or get DET pistons and rods and ride out on 20psi

no you wouldn't as your low lobes are 10.7mm low in and low ex 11.3....thats plenty of lift considering the duration more than the vet low lobes, and would give a great power range from 2k-5.5-6k then the tomei's would take over. It would be a fair better street cam than the vet's. the only thing i would be worried about is the fact that the vet low in ex cam is offset 7deg due to the need for overlap when the intake hits on high lobe.

however in saying that i have seen a 20v in and vet ex set up make good power on just the low lobes, however his power did last to pretty high in the rev range.

The only thing needed to make a good turbo cam is this imo:
get a 20v intake cam and vet ex cam put it on the dyno and play around with cam settings till it comes in real hard real early, will prob need to advance ex a little

then give your results to a cam shop, tell them to copy the 20v cam and vet cam, and offset the lobes to your specs. Then get them to copy a tomei 270deg in and 280 deg ex profile and apply to the high lobes.

then you have a turbo cam that looks like:
228deg 10.7mm low in
244deg 11.3mm low ex

270deg 12.5mm high in
280deg 12.5mm high ex

you wont have to rev the crap out of your car to make power on these cams

i would be willing to do all the tunning and dyno time if a manufacturer was on board