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Thread: Pulleys on a VE...Is it safe?

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Posts: 11-20 of 34
2008-11-01 01:34:24
#11
No problem to knife edge the crank as long as you have a good guy doing it.

As long as an even amount of metal has been removed from each one there should be no adverse effects.
2008-11-01 02:01:18
#12
Last time I had a minor dispute with Andreas a silly woman smashed my car. I don't wish this to happen again. It has happen lots of times already.

Here are some facts.






The part number of the SR16VE crank does not change among the years and it's a 8CW from the photos that have been posted on the forums.
If anybody claims otherwise please prove so.


Let's look about the SR20VE




The P11 SR20VE-DE crank is a 4CW one.


The 8CW is used on P12 SR20VE 20V and T30 SR20VET





12200-60J00 upgraded to 12200-60J10 8CW

12200-64J10 upgraded to 12200-2J200 4CW

12200-64J00 (used on SR18 only) upgraded to 12200-2J200 4CW

12200-54C05 N14 GTiR Specific only

There is no other part no which has been upgraded. Every part that has changed is displayed either on the current model or an older model which uses same part.


Something weird that occurred recently. I bought a 8CW 2lt crank coming out of a Silvia. I was told that the package weight was 18.5Kg (40.8pounds). I located another Silvia crank where I looked the engravings and didn't match anything on Fast. My belief is that it's an Autech part (as wierd as it sounds) I bought it also. I was told that weight was 18Kg (40pounds).
I could tell you more when I have them in hands.


Now have a look on a N1 WP pulley compared to Gspec alluminum




12.628 vs 5.149 ounce


N1 vs Gspec Crank Pulley


4.59 vs 1.3 pounds

It is said that SR16/20VE pulley weights 4.2 pounds (1,9Kg)
2008-11-01 02:38:09
#13
Out of sight.

The SR16VE crank does come 4 CW and 8CW.

I have pulled apart about 10 SR16VE motors and 6 of them had 4 CWCs. There have been a few people on the forum that have seen 4 CWC also.


There is no Autech crank. Cranks are made in diffrent places and they have diffrent stampings.

Lastly dont go by the parts catalogue it has many errors in it.

I can give you one of them which I still think they have not changed. This has to deal with the brakes on SERs and NX2000.

Andreras Miko
2008-11-01 11:47:53
#14
Personally I do rely on what catalog displays. It never proved wrong to me.
I don't know what's happening with the US catalog. My version is a bit old on that. Japan catalog is updated every month! I'm using March 2008 version. Every part or ecu query I made for a car was accurate.

Being experienced with parts you know that crank and rods have five last characters of the part number engraved.
The "shadily" parts I located display 79E40 on both rods and crank from what I was able to see of the poor photos quality. Someone else also has them. Unfortunately my photos were deleted.

DET rod are 12100-79E00 upgraded with 12100-79E01 and then with 12100-8H600 (T30,N30,S15,W11)
2008-11-01 12:53:35
#15
Out of sight the VZR N1 pulley is unique to this motor and was devloped specifically for this motor.


The N1 crank on the other hand is the same crank that was used in SR16VE motors. For all my information, the SR16VE never changed its crank design, and from 97/08 was the same right through to 99/10. This is using the July 2008 Nissan Fast catalogue.


NINJA EDIT: Please disregard the N1 pulley being lighter. I have read out of sights post wrong.
2008-11-01 12:59:02
#16
N1 pully is heavier than the standard VE pully
2008-11-01 13:06:30
#17
Andreas, what about using the full UR pulley set on a VE? Will that be OK? Do I have to use the DE spacer?
2008-11-01 13:08:00
#18
I have never done it.

Why not buy the correct one from G Spec and sell the DE pulleys to a DE guy.
2008-11-01 17:15:11
#19
I updated my post on 1st page with Gspec Crank pulley.

Makes you really wonder why was the need for the N1 pulley to be heavier than the SR16/20VE one.

I'm using Gspec crank pulley for about 10000 miles. Recent bottom sump replacement didn't show anything bad. New dynosheet will prove if it was a good or a bad choice for N1.

There was a great impact in rev response but it was combined with new distributor cap,wires and tps sensor.
2008-11-03 01:34:33
#20
Originally Posted by RidinOnRails
http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/11253-there-life-after-7200rpm.html
^check in this thread^


Ha ha saw that thread,its what got me started,second guessing adding pulleys.

Originally Posted by Andreas
I dont like Pullies on a VE that has a 4 CWC. I feel it will shorten the life of the motor alot if the car is reved high alot. Please dont mistake making power as far as putting them on and how long the bearings will last. If you bring the pullies I install them.

This is my opinion.

Even Nissan made the change back to the 8 CWC in the newer motors.

Here is a look at SR20 motor that dont rev past 7000 RPMs, they all have 4 CWC

SR20VE P11
SR20DE Roller Rocker B15, P11 and U14

Here is a look at SR20 motors that rev above 7000 PRMs, they all have 8 CWC
SR20VE 20V P12
SR20DE B13, B14, P10
SR20DET RNN14, U12, U13, W10, W11


Lets take a look at SR16VE motors

The early ones come 4 CWC. After the first 2 years Nissan changed back to the 8 CWC, makes you wonder why.

The only thing the 4 CWC has on the 8 CWC is weight. The 4 CWC is about 7 pounds lighter which is alot of weight. So that being said a 4 CWC should rev up way faster than an 8 CWC. This is a major advatage.


This makes me think it would be wiser to not do the pulleys.
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