Thread: Prototype Turbo Manifold

Vadim,why don't you
Position the t-3 flange flat instead of angled. It will bring the rear o2 closer to the head and make the merging much easier to work on.

This design won't be finished for another month or so I'm guessing...maybe you can find a buyer for your mani by then and switch

The plan is to use that boss off the head as one of the possible attachment points for turbo bracing...I would like to offer a light weight thin wall tubing manifold with double slip fit collectors after the thick wall version is complete.





DP will be optional. We designed the mani with an easy to mfg DP in mind, so it shouldn't be to expensive.

Here's the plan for the thermostat hardline mod. Looks like we are going to machine a new thermostat housing flange from which the 1.5 in. OD hardline will be run. This flange will also remove the stock thermostat which will be replaced with an inline thermostat and housing. It all connects back to the stock radiator outlet with another machined adapter. It should free up a lot of space for this turbo setup!

Thermostat housing flange


Inline thermostat


1.5 in. hardline to stock radiator adapter.

Looking good...

Because I was attempting to make a low profile manifold that was similar to to a log manifold in size.



Once it's in the car I'm not touching it



What's your schedule options? I take it you will be using sch 10 for regular, sch 40 for reinforced and something 16 gauge for light weight?

I would be more inclined to go with sch40 for long lasting crack prevention.

of course you make one after I got a sidewinder

Subscribed!!!!!!!!!

Why are you making the radiator hose situation difficult on yourself. Why not make a new thermostat housing neck that does a 90 deg down and then either find yourself a hose that will work better or modify the existing to where the hose comes straight up into the adapter. Looks like there is plenty of clearance to do so with both the small and large turbos. 90 down and either modify the existing hose or find a hose that will work better.

Seems like your making it more complicated than it needs to be. Even with the compressor housing clocked more downward it still looks like a modified or new hose with different bends would work good with a housing neck with a 90 deg bend either downward or off towards the trans would work fine. No need to get all fancy with the hardline stuff.

Biggest part that sucks is the hotside charge pipe having to run in that tight spot between the radiator, wastegate, and everything else in the way. Thats why I love my compressor housing on the other side of things in rwd format. Makes running the charge pipe shorter and easier with no crazy bends or anything.

very exciting!

Keo I'll buy this one and we can trade.

i have great timing, don't I



It's not difficult at all and there's a reason for the new parts.


Reasons why I don't want to modify the thermo housing:

Clearance
-The clearance between the mating surface (gasket side) of the thermostat housing to the compressor housing is roughly 2 in.. If you want to cut and weld on a 90 deg tube to the housing (modifying the housing equals even less clearance), you will need a tight radius bend and most likely will have to cheat the bend to get it to fit.

Location
-If the cheated bend/couplers are successfully fabricated to the stock housing, they are now even closer to the hot parts...bad news for a daily driven or road raced setup.

Weldability
-Welding to coolant soaked cast aluminum is a giant PITA and rarely comes out "nice". The weld can end up porous, potentially leaking. On top of that, I don't have spare thermo housings sitting around that can be modified and sent to customers...i don't want to core thermo housings either.

Reasons for the new thermo housing:

Manufacturability
-All I have to do is draw it, machine it, and the fab it up!

Performance
-The new hardline will clear this setup and should clear many other driver side faced compressor housing setups. The inline thermostat also accepts traditional chevy thermostats (easy to source) which have a wide range of opening temps...170, 185, 195 def F. etc. There should be plenty of room to spare for daily drivers and road raced setups.

Charge pipe setup will most likely utilize a vertical flow intercooler with inlet/outlet on the same side. Should be easy to do and piping should be minimal.