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Thread: Calum Realtime ECU availability

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Posts: 31-40 of 47
2008-01-09 05:00:58
#31
Thanks for the update Wildman

I knew about the whole re-burning process and how JWT overcharges... hehe

I might get a Realtime, or might just get a JWT depending on how much I can get the either or.

If I go with a JWT it will be because I'll be getting it of a fellow member...
2008-01-09 15:26:38
#32
For basic B14 DE it takes alot of work (read dyno time) to get good gains beyond what a G20 ecu + advancing the timing via the distributor gets you. However, if your having trouble finding a manual G20 ecu, my basic is only $105 shipped, and basic performance DE program I use is more 'aggressive' than the stock ecu (no speed limiter and rev limiter set where ever you want of course). Since you've got a 99 though, you would need to get a 95-97 B14 manual core, and do some rewiring.

Honestly though, for your car, the better bang for the buck is just getting a new-to-you clean jdm engine. You have the sludge monster, right? For not too much more than you would spend buying a RT or JWT ecu, you'll get a waaaaay better gain. Save your pennies and do that, do it right, and then worry about your ecu. If I was you, this is what I would do- 1-JDM DE, 2-G20 or basic ecu, 3-S4 cams. Do 1 first, 2 and 3 can really be done in either order. If you do go with cams order the ecu with a higher idle and removed idle timing stabilization, it makes the idle smooth out with the cams.

On the basic daughterboards -

I designed all the daughterboards to be friendly to you working with them, even the basics. The B14s are a bit of a pain because you have to flip the board over, but they still use ZIF sockets and swapping and burning chips doesn't take that long (see moates.net burn 1, its easy to use and quick).

I still offer the basic boards, and even keep updating the boards, just because for some people its a really good product. Mostly, people (read college students) on a really strapped budget. If you've got-

-B14 and can't find a deal on a manual G20 ecu
-B13/B14 and are swapping a VE
-B13/B14 and are using a basic turbo setup (370 inj, T25, common maf, etc)

and are on a tight budget, then the basic boards are for you. $105 is a smoking good deal.
2008-01-09 17:51:10
#33
Thanks for the update Calum!

I am considering a new JDM RR motor. Thought I would throw in an ECU while I'm at it, esp if the ECU is like $105 .

I might just go with a JWT ECU, I would rather stick it to the man and go with your ECU Calum, but since it seems like the JWT has what I would need right out of the box, it might be easier
2008-01-09 17:55:13
#34
I also suggest the G20 ECU. You know that my car has one. No speed limiter/ 7500 RPM fuel cut (although it shows around 7800RPM on the tach).

Direct drop in on our '98-'99 cars. So you dont have to do all that re-wiring. I didnt get an SES/CEL light when I put mine in. If you do get one then just change the rear O2 sensor to a 95-97 one and you wont have a SES/CEL light.

EDIT: I got mine for $50 shipped off a forum member. I think there were plenty of G20 ECU's for sale around the time I got mine.
2008-01-09 18:03:13
#35
Calum, can you add the Realtime application to my UK OBD-1 ECU?....I don't know if there is any difference to the US OBD-1....But im building a High C/R N/A build...and would love a RT to run it all.

Any info would be great.
2008-01-09 19:21:27
#36
Originally Posted by Vex630
I also suggest the G20 ECU. You know that my car has one. No speed limiter/ 7500 RPM fuel cut (although it shows around 7800RPM on the tach).

Direct drop in on our '98-'99 cars. So you dont have to do all that re-wiring. I didnt get an SES/CEL light when I put mine in. If you do get one then just change the rear O2 sensor to a 95-97 one and you wont have a SES/CEL light.

EDIT: I got mine for $50 shipped off a forum member. I think there were plenty of G20 ECU's for sale around the time I got mine.


Ah I see, well the O2 sensor wont fit the 99 cat because it's different size
2008-01-09 20:06:55
#37
Originally Posted by CovertRussian
I might just go with a JWT ECU, I would rather stick it to the man and go with your ECU Calum, but since it seems like the JWT has what I would need right out of the box, it might be easier


there isnt a right out of the box for a 99 car. no matter what you are rewiring your ecu plug. dont think that just buying JWT means its plug-n-play. for 98-99 it is not.
2008-01-09 20:54:36
#38
Originally Posted by Bowlcut
there isnt a right out of the box for a 99 car. no matter what you are rewiring your ecu plug. dont think that just buying JWT means its plug-n-play. for 98-99 it is not.


Seriously?
2008-01-09 21:15:50
#39
Yea, the 98-99s are oddballs.

You really should rewire the 98-99 harness when you install a 95-97 ecu too.

The 98-99 ecus switched to a slightly different architecture than the 95-97 B14 ecus. Still not the flash style ala 00+, but different enough from the 95-97. I suspect they still use the same processor family, but its hard to tell, they went to all house markings. Also the consult protocol changed with those ecus, so all the old consult software doesn't work. All in all just a pain in the a$$.

I don't know if the 99 G20 manual ecus have the no speed limiter and higher rev limiter, but if it does it will work fine with the 98-99 sentras. Probably not an easy ecu to find.
2008-01-09 21:18:57
#40
Originally Posted by GTi
Calum, can you add the Realtime application to my UK OBD-1 ECU?....I don't know if there is any difference to the US OBD-1....But im building a High C/R N/A build...and would love a RT to run it all.

Any info would be great.


It depends on the year. Open the lid, take a good hi res picture, and post it.
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