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Thread: dyno tune today (nismotronic) sr20det, numbers

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Posts: 21-30 of 36
2014-10-27 21:10:09
#21
Originally Posted by Vadim
Also make sure to compare same drivetrains, you guys are probably thinking FWD which will have much less drivetrain loss then his S13...


I was waiting for someone to bring up this taboo, and rarely understood concept. Perhaps I should delve and try to find another article that is still around, easy to read, and helpful to folks that would like a bit of insight.

Attempting to apply a "blanket" number to a chassis based upon the location of the power train components is an oversimplification of something that is not necessarily complicated, but simply a far less understood concept. A relationship can be expected and drawn out in theory but nothing concrete because of all the different ways the power train systems are created and applied. They differ from one model to the other, and even from one manufacturer to the next.

Example: A Subaru AWD system greatly differs than the Honda CR-V AWD system. Therefore, the two will have much different drivetrain losses yet they are front engined, all-wheel drive chassis'.

Example: Two Front engine, rear-wheel drive cars. One is stock. The other car is of the same model but has drivetrain components with increased strength, lighter weight, reduced inertia, and heftier price tag . Let's say the transmission gear stacks were removed and replaced with lighter and stronger parts. The drive shaft, rear differential, and rear half-shafts have been replaced with all new lighter and stronger parts. The driveline losses are going to be vastly different and these quick examples can hopefully begin to illustrate the differences.

While I will say that between a front engine, front drive car and a front engine, rear drive car. The losses are more prevalent because the torque is transferred through a right angle whereas the FR (Front engine, Front drive) and MR (Mid engine, Rear drive) is almost passed in a linear path from engine to wheels. Therefore, the front engine, front drive car should not have as much as a drivetrain loss than the front engine, rear drive car but that is not always true and that should be kept in mind.

Even more importantly, the dyno is a more tool used by the owner of the car. The idea of sharing all the cool numbers in the world is neat, but those tools should be used for tuning or comparative reasons between the same car at the same dyno machine.

To summarize, I have no comment on the output of the car, @gomba certainly hit a spot that resonated on my mind simply because that is widely ignored when I see the turbo folks discuss numbers. What goes in must go out, that is what I always thought.
Last edited by Kyle on 2014-10-28 at 14-18-59. Reason: replaced are with is for agreement
2014-10-31 07:25:28
#22
Originally Posted by remy
So i finally got everything buttoned up on my s13 and got it on the rollers.

I'm curious what you guys think about the numbers

stock redtop sr20det (unopened)
journal bearing 2871r
z32 maf
550cc injectors
stock manifolds
FMIC
3" turbo back
nismotronic SA
93 octane shell
tuned at 16psi

we got 289hp and 271tq

AFRs low 11s

is this about what i should expect?


i can upload a .tcd file later if anyone would like to see..ill also post the dyno plot


should be a bit more i would think
2014-10-31 21:37:08
#23
YUP its RWD not FWD guys and an t series turbo. He's doing good for a stock motor and a somewhat small t series..

I didn't check your tcd but how much timing are you running up top? You should be able to squeeze 20deg out of it atleast. Might yield some more power........
2014-11-01 14:22:08
#24
Most 2871r are into 300 to 350whp. That's regular t28 numbers.
2014-11-04 06:00:37
#25
Remy where in NC are you I would like to meet you if you are in or around Raleigh
2014-11-04 13:47:30
#26
FWD or RWD, compressor maps tell the true story

Please take a look at this and tell me at around 16-17 psi, what should the turbo be flowing


Again, those numbers are low for 16-17psi on a SR20DET RWD.......According to this map, it should be above 300WHP for a .64 AR GT2871R (real Garrett)

A S15 turbo (GT2860R) is making those numbers @ 17 psi of boost for reference.

For a cheap, knock off turbo, not bad. But compared to the real deal, IMHO the numbers are just a little low..........



"SR20DEt 16.5 psi, Stock IM, Crappy piping, 319 WHP
Last edited by Boostlee on 2014-11-04 at 13-52-40.
2014-11-07 18:21:49
#27
Originally Posted by Scrildo
Remy where in NC are you I would like to meet you if you are in or around Raleigh

hey whats up. I am located in north raleigh near lynn/leesville rd . Id love to meet up sometime..I sent a PM


thanks for the help to those giving advice here and via PM..very kind of you
2014-11-07 18:28:17
#28
^^although i definitely agree that I should be in the 300whp range..that thread you linked the guy says its a .86
2014-11-07 20:09:16
#29
Originally Posted by remy
^^although i definitely agree that I should be in the 300whp range..that thread you linked the guy says its a .86


My apologies. i will dig up the correct graph here soon.

..........Or you can search through Google. They have a ton of -.64 graphs there you can search through for comparison purposes
2014-11-18 14:44:48
#30
went to first drift even this weekend, the car felt great and performed well
time for a new clutch though..

here is a quick clip, (first part was slow motion from a friends iPhone sped back up to normal speed: potatofilter)
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