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Thread: disconnected knock sensor

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Posts: 11-15 of 15
2012-01-27 14:39:50
#11
Our knock sensors are pretty decent. There are two main types of sensors. A decent one and a crappy version. Our sr's come with the better version. Mitsubishis on the other hand and I believe most hondas as well come with the crappy version knock sensor.

Do some research on knock sensors and how they function. It will go over the different types.

Our knock sensors are pretty sensitive but they do well and are a great tool for tuning if you have a standalone. The factory ecu makes corrections when knock is sensed as well but with a standalone you have a much more wide ability to see, data log, and make timing corrections when knock is sensed. Also our SR's make a lot of static noise mainly due to placement but not enought to really affect the way the motor runs.

As Vadim said in the factory ecu the ecu only reads knock to 4800 rpm or so. Whereas a standalone will read, can datalog, and make corrections throughout the entire powerband. So again much more wide range of use. Im using an AEM ems and it works great with our knock sensors.
2012-01-27 15:13:11
#12
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
As Vadim said in the factory ecu the ecu only reads knock to 4800 rpm or so. Whereas a standalone will read, can datalog, and make corrections throughout the entire powerband. So again much more wide range of use. Im using an AEM ems and it works great with our knock sensors.


You can make the stock one read higher, but engine noise will get false positives, is the standalone able to fish through those?

Here is one of the example timing maps, all of those 140's is the knock sensor feedback areas.
2012-01-27 15:31:15
#13
Yes, you can set a baseline that the knock reading starts to take affect and actually make changes. This is set to a baseline voltage. From what i saw on my car once i got rid of the obvious high spike voltages that were actually knock. I would see about .4-.5 volts across the board that was just static reading. So basicly you would set your baseline voltage in the AEM to say .6 volts just to be safe or to whatever your highest reading was during a clean knock free pull, set your baseline above that so that anything above that line is acknowledged as actual knock and makes the proper timing adjustments. Ill post what the aem knock options look like. Pretty nice.



You can see the baseline on the graph. That voltage below the baseline is considered just static noise. Corrections wont be made until voltages are above the baseline. You can see the timing retard/volt, maximum timing that it will pull, fuel % added/volt and maximum fuel it will add period, and then the restore rates for timing and fuel when knock is back down below threshold. Pretty neat stuff. For me it sucks i wasnt using any of the knock features of the AEM on my T67 setup. Because i didnt know it was disabled mainly and forgot to even look. My own fault on that. Probably would have saved the damage to the head when i blew the plugs out and melted holes in the valves on the dyno. Possibly could have saved the ring damage when the fuel pressure dumped on me at the track too. 5 deg of timing pulled can make a huge difference on what happens in your motor at 35 lbs of boost. lol
2012-01-27 15:39:34
#14
Ah cool, that is a nifty feature then!
2014-09-12 15:49:19
#15
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
in obdII vehicles you will get a code. All it does it check the knock for continuity and if it doesnt sense its there it will throw a code. Obd1 vehicles. Nope, you can unplug it and run without it without any affect on the motor at all other than it will not take timing away if knock occurs as it would with it connected.


Yep, Old thread. Can I really just disconnect the knock sensor to avoid the ECM retarding the timing? My engine is OBD I.

Also: Can someone can tell me if a 92 Infiniti G20 SR20DE (OBD I) has a knock sensor harness or not? This is really what I need to know.
I have seen KS harnesses for sale, but when I looked under to see the wiring from the KS, the wire ran from the KS up to the harness running along the underside of the intake. It merged that harness and continued along under the wrap of black electrical tape.
The wires of this harness eventually ran into the wire loom and into the cabin and eventually to the ECM.

I have been getting some outstanding assistance from a fellow G20-er who showed me wiring diagrams of a lowport g20. But mine is a high port engine. On one diagram he showed me, the wiring continues from the wire loom to a junction box (below the glove box) that serves as the grounding point for the ground shield wire, and then the signal wire runs to the ECM.
Can someone tell me if this is accurate for a p10 highport G20?
Last edited by Cheezit on 2014-09-12 at 15-52-40.
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