Thread: Tuning for idle AFR-realtime

I wouldn't be too worried about rich afr's at start up. You are in the warmup enrichment at that point and you need to wait until the car warms up before you check your afr's. You'd be amazed at how much fuel it takes to keep a cold motor idling smoothly.

Bump, still nothing. I installed a new o2 which help the warm idle and found a boost leak but still gotta sit with my foot on the throttle till she warms up to idle.

Nsusammyab: how are you running no iacv???

I think he means he's not running the cold idle valve?
He might be running no idle valve at all though. He'll have to explain how he's getting air in there. Might be a slightly over-tight throttle cable he's working with to let a bit of air in...

Ben, I searched and found his b14 build thread. It seems he fabbed a block plate for the iacv and remove it all together. I can't imagine how that works. I posted in his thread as well in hopes to generate response.

But wait, cold idle valve??? What's/where's that?

We've been over this before. Read your thread from the beginning: http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/45799-year-3-no-cold-idle-checklist-help-please.html
Post #12 has a picture of it.

Ohhh, the AAC valve. I didn't read him speak of that, which I asked him in his thread.

Maybe its ECT issue. Have you replace it or see the ECT reading on the ecu. Maybe the TPS setting. The tps should show off position for idle if your feet is not on throttle.

ECT, I assume you refer to the coolant temp sensor? It's reading right off the laptop in line with my autometer gauge. I've tried tps at the top and bottom of the operation range and curretly keep it set at .50.