I can definately vouch for the fact that our MAFs are getting tired.
On the NX2000 that I'm rebuilding I picked up two stock de MAFs from the forums. On both MAFs I was getting ~.82V with both key on engine off. With engine idling there was only a slight change in voltage up to .85V. Bench testing them I could get them to 1.2V by blowing on them so I figured the MAFs were fine and that I had a wiring or vacuum leak.
I ended up my car apart looking for wiring problems and vac leaks, even went so far as to pick up a second intake manifold. Nothing was working. Even tried the CRC MAF spray. Later I remembered that I had an Avenir MAF for my future turbo setup and threw it on the car. Voltages were .52 KOEO and 1.3 at idle. Bench testing it like I did the other two I was getting voltages of 2V+ by blowing on it versus only 1.2V.
Turns out I bought two MAFs that were duds that failed in the same way, at least one will cover the core charge when I pick up a new MAF from the store, I'm done with buying used MAFs.
On the NX2000 that I'm rebuilding I picked up two stock de MAFs from the forums. On both MAFs I was getting ~.82V with both key on engine off. With engine idling there was only a slight change in voltage up to .85V. Bench testing them I could get them to 1.2V by blowing on them so I figured the MAFs were fine and that I had a wiring or vacuum leak.
I ended up my car apart looking for wiring problems and vac leaks, even went so far as to pick up a second intake manifold. Nothing was working. Even tried the CRC MAF spray. Later I remembered that I had an Avenir MAF for my future turbo setup and threw it on the car. Voltages were .52 KOEO and 1.3 at idle. Bench testing it like I did the other two I was getting voltages of 2V+ by blowing on it versus only 1.2V.
Turns out I bought two MAFs that were duds that failed in the same way, at least one will cover the core charge when I pick up a new MAF from the store, I'm done with buying used MAFs.