Thread: What did you weld today?

Really nothing special about it. It's just a T3 from Pure Turbos.

Emergency Downpipe repair on a Supra. DP cracked while street tuning for one of my boys. HTP Invertig 131 DC @ 35A, HTP 55 cu ft, argon @ 19cfh 1/16" lanathated tungsten, .040 308L rods, did not backpurge or use solar flux but I cleaned the gunk out of it with decarbonizer, soap, water, 600grit wet sand paper...lol forgot the 3m scratch pad.
Previous fabricator had merged dumptube with a cheapy flex section to dp which failed and had forced vbands together causing leak after downpipe, had to pie cut in 2 pieces to rotate and clock angle for no tension.


Re-did dumptube to atmosphere dump.


After that had to modify InlinePro S2K turbo kit w/ Invidia test pipe section. Using GReddy TiC exhaust with resonator delete, had to utilize 3 bolt home base flange, customer refused to change flanges.
3.0" 2 bolt off dp, used 2.75" section of pipe and welded on to 2.5" test pipe section. Realized 02 sensor clocked wrong contacting floor pan, noted exhaust resonator delete was welded at a slight angle causing exhaust to pull down with test pipe contacting GTSpec rear lower brace clocked it, tacked on car, welded off car.

looking good. you always have the fun projects nismo! haha:nightmare:

welds have some good color to them


Just for the record backpurging isnt always needed.

Fixed an old set of headers. Had to pretty much re-make the secondaries, but the primaries were usable minus the flange.

Its the HTP welder, absolutely awesome. Its dialed in so well from HTP I felt that those were some of the cleanest welds I've done in a long time. The 5 welds I did on the Supra DP I ran thru so fast <15min after final position tacks. The 5 welds on the S2000 TP I ran thru even faster. I felt in the zone on that machine, it was around 11pm starting 3am finishing, towards the end i got a lil dopey as fatigue set in. The machine kept me going like I was on viagra....lmao.

Yes I've been using less and less of solarflux and backpurge'n.

ok so first off dont laugh lol. never welded before in my life. always wanted to learn so i went to harbor freight and picked up a 90 amp wire flux welder on sale. figured it wouldnt be too bad to learn on. found some scrap metal and played around today trying to weld two pieces together. i would do a couple tacks a few inches apart then try to run a bead between the two. first couple times came out horrible. once i realized that once the helmet darkened, i could still see the melting metal and the line i needed to take, things got a lot better. and by better i at least got a straight bead lol. after comparing my welding to the pictures on the card, i decided i need to flip the welder from min to max to increase the amps, not hold it at such an angle, and hold it closer to the surface. i'm mostly getting a bead on top and it's not penetrating all the way through to the bottom. if i have some free time tomorrow, i might cut it apart and try again. also dont think i had the metal clean enough. i did snap a couple pics. probably looks horrendous but i think for learning how to bead, it doesnt look that bad.

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I haven't done a whole lot of MIG welding myself pat. I do know that you need to get your amps right before anything else. Your beads are a little on the cold side. Get that right and then adjust your feed speed.

Also, try prepping the metal better. A "v" cut where your weld is going is ideal and makes for a much cleaner pass. A lot of people don't prep the material they're welding properly and that causes some problems. When I was first starting out I just wanted to jump in and weld but prep is most of the work and most newbies just don't do it.

Better than my first welds on MIG and i turned out fine. Once I got my hands on TIG I am addicted to it.

TIG Machine: SnapOn TIG250H2O, AC Mode Pulse 45A-85A, Used zirconiated tungsten 3/32", Argon @ 20cfh, prepped with 3m maroon scratch pad, Material is 6061 sheet .125" thick. Used a Skil jigsaw to make the bottom flange from a template of OEM sending unit cover.
Cover for a fuel tank sender unit using FullBlown dual fuel pump hangers, has a 10an feed and 8an return. Had tried to rig one up for the time being, made a customer unhappy, got brought back in to fix it. I had to rush some of the welds due to time constraints, once done, it blew his mind. Happy to pay me the difference from what I charged for the poorly designed piece to the new full aluminum box. I went the extra mile to find foam seal to keep the elements from coming into his rear seat area. It all fit under the seat cushion.

I don't post on this forum much, but do enjoy this thread. Bummed it hasn't been bumped in almost a month.

1/4" 6061 alum cut on my CNC. 3/32 Pure tungsten. 3/32 filler rod. 100% pure argon. Cleaned with thinner (to clean up oil from cutting). Parts are master cylinder braces for an ae86 corolla. ( a make a lot of parts for this chassis. It's a friends car, I make the parts, he sells them on his forum )







Mild steel 3/8" and 1/4" cut on waterjet. 3/32 ceriated tungsten. 3/32 filler rod. 100% pure argon. Cleaned up with flap disc to remove black coating that comes on steel. Parts are to use rx-7 4-piston calipers on an ae86. I don't have any completion photos, but all 10 sets were welded in segments to keep warping to a min.







Mild steel of varying thicknesses. Flanges cut on waterjet. Pie cuts etc. cut on both cutoff chop saw and angle grinder with cutoff wheel. Final fitting done with 6" wide belt sander. 3/32" ceriated tungsten. 1/16 and 3/32 filler rod. This is my new setup on my GA16DET. Work still in progress. I make everything: Manifold, DP, Hotside, Coldside. All alum intake tubing cut on my CNC. intercooler tubing is 6061 2.5" x 3/16" wall. I don't have any pics of the IC tubing yet. I also recycle as much "old" tubing as possible on my own setups.

Oh the things I could do with a cnc.