Thread: B15 SE peformance

bascially, the fujitsubo header is the best sr20ve header off the shelf today. you can also grab a ssac 2.5 and get it port matched and still be competitive. people are running ssac 2.5 header sr20ve's to 200whp with that header too. but the fujitsubo header doesnt match up to a sr20de without some modification.

you can search on the other forum : www(.)sr20forum(.)com. it used to hold a bunch of info, until charles went nutz about editing his posts

thank you very much...you also solved another question i had...about using the fuji in the DE i will chek that out...thanks again man...

hey check out my thread over at the other forum.

Well, I just checked on B15Sentra, and the guy who sells exhausts in the vendor classifieds charges an extra 120$ to buy this and go 2.5" on the Stromung. I'll most likely use my tax return to go 2.5" all the way and change the HKS for this (I prefer how the dual tips look as opposed to the HKS single 4-incher, and I'm hoping that the Stromung renown quietness will make up for the extra diameter).

A new 2.5" ceramic header from e-bay knocked at my door last week as well. I hope it will be a good upgrade over my 2" stainless steel header. I need to make the VE breathe better.

Ive done everything NA to a roller rocker, it will be faster but nothing serious. My VE when it was stock could mollywop a fully bolted n/a RR. I had the S3R cams (the idle unless you are on boost can get to be a pain the ass and annoying). Go with a good setup like:

AEM CAI $200
Custom 2.5" catback or some other $300est
SSAC headers $140
Lightened flywheel $300
UR Pulleys (some run them some dont its up to you) $300
S3R cams $425

$1665.00 for 150-156WHP.

BTW I have Eibach Sportline Springs for sale slightly used for the B15 SE $120 plus shipping.

and you should be good to go.

Yeah but you VE was/is in a NX whereas your P11 had the RR. A slight weight difference but in either case, I'm not going to argue the difference between the DE vs VE because the VE has a much better design for N/A and is stronger even without the VVL. I considered the VE but an extra 20whp is not worth the extra $1500-$2000. I'm on a budget I might consider the springs though

Good list. I would add a Magnaflow 2.5" high-flow cat to that list. The stock cat chokes down the whole system if you forget it (too restrictive + smaller diameter, duh). Don't ask me how I figured it out

Also, I would not go with a custom cat-back, but that's just me. I had one made before getting the HKS, and some of the bends were not quite right, making the whole thing hang too low/look like crap. You would definitely need to go to a good fab shop to have it done right. Clearing the rear beam correctly does take some skill.

Understood, but then you would have a good clean healthy fun motor, youll be spending the cash anyway Let me know about the springs I need to get them out of the garage in FL. I wouldnt want you to spend the $$ on the boltons and be unhappy you know. One great mod to add to that is some Nitrous hehe It works like a charm. JC Gator had an auto B15 SE with a 75shot, that thing moved according to him hehe Damn this was back in 02'-03' feels like yesterday. I still love the RR motor though...

A cat would def help its true. A custom catback from Miami Muffler "aka" VRS Exhaust is better than any HKS etc... IMO. Its cheaper and works just as good. If I wasnt at work id show you my custom 3" on the P11 with a Magnaflow Muffler, it was amazing! And all mandrel bent, it looked like an Anaconda!

fwiw, the aem is not a good intake for cam'ed sr20's. on the dyno my car made 1whp with the aem over the stock box with the cams. id try and find a 3" hs or pr intake or run a 3" wai with a pop charger or flow stack. also get the 2.5" header if you plan on getting cams.