Thread: Kinda need some help!

I bought a b13 a few months ago, first foray into the world of the sr20. I have previously owned a b15 spec v that was highly modified but the sr20 is confusing the hell out out me!

Let me start by gving you a short list of my mods relevent to my problem.

1998 Primera engine
Jim Wolfe ECU
Bluebird manifold
T25/28 hybrid
ebay front mount and IC piping (this stuff is crap!)
370 cc injectors
Gti-r maf
Also has an untuned V-afc that is about to get tossed for a Apexi NEO sitting on my bench in the garage

My problem is a very erratic idle, since the day I got it it has hunted, so after doing some reading I thought I would try this and solve all my problems: http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/21451-delete-arv-iacv.html

And that was a "no go!"
Idle is really hunting now and will finally settle into a minor hunt between 900-1200 rpms when sitting in the garage. Then when taken for a quick spirited juant it will die every time I push in the clutch and let the motor rev down.

Also, when its sitting and reving doing its little hunting trick it likes to do so well, if I blip the throttle to say 4k, it will drop to around 300-400 rpm and then hunt like crazy! Eventually after bouncing up and down for about 10 times it will start to creep back up to the normal area of around 900 - 1200 or so.


Now the one thing I didnt try to adjust to correct the situation was the tiny stop screw on the underneath side of the throttle body on the left hand side as your looking straight at it(figured I had screwed it up enough and should seek help before further mistakes could be made!)

Just for my own piece of mind I also cleaned the MAF and the throttle body to try and eliminate them from the loop of failure I have created.

BTW, for anyone making a block off plate, an electrical j-box cover works very nicely. It can be purchased for about a buck at any hardware store, cuts and shapes very easily with a hacksaw and a file (A.K.A common garage items)

I am a noob so please forgive any and all ignorance displayed on my part, I'm trying to learn this motor

Any and all help or advice will be greatly appreciated!

The grey plastic screw you're talking about could be part of your problem. It might need to be backed out some. Have you looked up the "set idle" procedure from the factory service manual?

No I havent, will the FSM "set idle" procedure still apply since I have deleted the ARV and the IACV though?

Sorry, I still get all the idle valve names mixed up (there are technically 4 of them) and didn't realize which one's you'd removed. No, the procedure does not apply to you.

You've removed the three main idle valves (two electrical, and one mechanical) and you're wondering why you have idle problems?

Uhhh....

I figured it would'nt be as sedate as the factory idle but much better than it is now. I only removed the one on the passenger side of the motor. When I was doing the first oil change I noticed the one on the back of the motor, under the IM was gone, two 3/8" hose fittings sitting wide open, I promptly plugged these off. So far nothing I have done cant be un done, it was hunting before I started this and I just wanted to see if I could make it somewhat better.

That housing incorporates the main idle control valve, the fast idle control valve, and the adjustable idle screw pathway. That's three idle air sources you've removed.

That is the cold idle valve designed to give a very high idle when the engine is cold. Many people delete this and have no issues. You don't need this. That valve missing is not causing your problem.

Good. Before you did this I can only imagine you had some major problems with the engine. =]


I see...

If I were you I would test the regular idle control valve and the fast idle control valve by putting 12v to them and making sure the solenoids move.
Then I would clean out the housing and re-install it.
After that I would follow the FSM directions for setting your idle.
Make sure your TB is fully closed when the throttle pedal is not pressed. Make sure the cable doesn't need adjusting, and if you have a screw on the TB make sure it is not holding the plate open.

If you don't get a good idle, I'd start looking elsewhere for the problem.

"That housing incorporates the main idle control valve, the fast idle control valve, and the adjustable idle screw pathway. That's three idle air sources you've removed."

Thanks for clearing that up, this I didnt know!

In the process of doing this mod I re-routed the throttle cable so I spent some time with it and I'm sure is not bound.

Also before I started all this I removed the above mentioned housing and cleaned it very good, checking it with a 12 volt signal I didnt do though. I did however unplug it and it had no effect on the idle at all, from what I have read so far this is an indication of a fualty unit. Part of the reason I decided to try the delete route first.

While you were cleaning it, you should have removed the two idle control solenoids. While they are out you can test them with 12 volts and see with your eyes if they are working properly.

we'll have to get Craig out to your house..

he goes by "Grinch77" on here and is local...

and don't forget to check out the local Nissan forum:

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