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Thread: CS shifter bushing = trouble shifting into 5th?

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Posts: 11-20 of 21
2009-08-12 21:35:16
#11
Originally Posted by eggman
If you mean the shifter bushing on the linkage...10 shipped.
I had a problem with my es shifter bushing just being too tight.I was actually going to put the stock one back on,before I thought about it more.It has a Nylon locking nut on it so you may need to loosen it slightly to free up the movement of it.
If you want a rear motor mount(on the crossmember) 30 shipped.I assume this is NOT your problem,if you have prothanes pressed in.
Or do you mean the one up by the shifter that we all replace with the ES sway bar bushing?
Sorry,maybe we are confusing eachother.
Whatever you need,I am sure I have it.
Just PM me a pic or exactly what you want,and I will hook you up


I've got the prothanes but the cross member bolts up front aren't fully tightened. I know that one of bolts doesn't work because the threads snapped inside the support, so I am going to assume that the lack of full support on the cross member has finally allowed for some sway and sag in it. Got the piece that cross member bolts into with good threads??
2009-10-27 00:33:11
#12
Ok so it's been a bit, but I got the crossmember bolted just fine in the rear, only one in front. The other has absolutely NO threads or material to tap it with, so it'll have to saty that way for right now. STILL doesn't get into 5th gear, though I DID get it into 5th one time.

I found the stock rear shifter bracket bushing, so I am going to go back to that tomorrow after work if possible. I hope that takes care of it. Any more ideas? Any help is great. (BESIDES getting the front crossmember threads fixed - anyone seen Setzer?)
2009-10-27 00:34:12
#13
setzer has been working a lot and you have get that other crossmember bolt in there thats sketchy.
2009-10-27 01:00:51
#14
Yea I know. it's seriously got NOTHING up there though. It's the sheet metal and that's it. No threads or even REMNANTS of threads that can be tapped. Setzer's the one who said he's re-weld it if I needed. SEEMS I do, Pete. lemme know.
2009-10-27 01:15:28
#15
I just drilled it out and threw some nuts/bolts in there awhile ago. Put a pyramid stack of washers to make it stable on each side. Works fine.
2009-10-27 01:31:15
#16
Benny, any cutting involved? Or do I just pull out the radiator support and go @ it from the top? I lack a welder, so any help would be cool bro. I think I wanna put some washers in the front one that DOES grab also.. or I'll make sure I do those together as to make them the same.
2009-10-27 12:17:52
#17
Same thing happened to me
Originally Posted by PhorB13
Benny, any cutting involved? Or do I just pull out the radiator support and go @ it from the top? I lack a welder, so any help would be cool bro. I think I wanna put some washers in the front one that DOES grab also.. or I'll make sure I do those together as to make them the same.


One of my front bolts did the same thing... I supported the crossmember on a tranny stand and just welded the F-ing thing in. It may make swapping stuff a pain in the future but its just my daily driver. I thought of using washers etc but said screw it and welded the thing in
2009-10-27 12:45:01
#18
It might be worth considering the possibility that you have the typical 5th gear pop-out and either it's just bad timing, or the CS solid mount aggravated the condition.
2009-10-27 20:26:23
#19
I think I'll tackle everything that lead to it first. That is also a possibility too. Anyone gotta SR16 or B15 trans then? If NEED be, I mean.
2009-10-28 00:06:57
#20
Originally Posted by eggman
The mount on the crossmember toward the firewall...not the dogbone.


I had the same problem, the above solution worked for me as well. By default it wanted to go to the back. After driving around a bit I was able to re adjust it to a center position (closer to the tranny/firewall.) Works Great now.
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