Thread: Sunny N14 - Suspension development

So the N15 control arms are 15mm longer and the S14 ball joints were 15mm taller? I think this will work on the b13/14. Someone correct me if I am wrong

So the s14 ball joints have the same taper. Crude measurements that I got over the phone from a friend at autozone tells me that the B14 ball joints have an OD of 39 1/4 mm roughly. The s14 ball joints are 41mm from what I am reading. So you just milled down the s14 ball joints to fit? I am trying to find some tall shank ball joints. Not as easy as one would think on such a popular chassis.

Yeah, we had to mill down the ball joints housing on a lathe.
I used the moonface products - they are really expensive, but well worth it - imho.

I believe the OEM b14 bj's are 39mm and the s14/15 joints are 41mm. I was thinking about taking the lca down about a mill, mill and a half and then pressing them in as to not loose and of the lip for the c clip on the joint. I am in the process of getting some moonface ball joints myself after seeing this thread. That and since I already have a B14, I think I may extend the lca's about 10mm, depending on how my geometry turns out when I get there.
The only other two options that I have found are the megan ones or the hardrace ones, which I really do believe are the same parts as you get megans on ebay when you use hardraces part number

Doctor G: Sorry, I forgot to answer.
The N15 lower arms are all the same. I used N15 ones with SR20. Further I replaced the stock bushings with a set of energy suspension ones.
The rear controll arm bushing is this one: Whiteline KCA303 Control arm - lower inner rear bushing (caster correction)
The added caster helps on turn in and makes the car more responsive to drive. With this modification you have about 10 - 15mm more track in front. But thats just the 'first part' of the story.

The balljoint I used was this one: Moonface SAB13R ( I will double check with the box it came in! )
We have choosen this one, as the tapper fits very well in the knuckle. The only issue is the housing diameter is 2mm too big in diameter. With a little lathe action it fits perfectly.

The car is 'low' but not slamed!


I hope this helps!
To give a 'final input'... When lowering the car with this modification, set the front to a height where the lower arms are parallel to the ground. If you corner balance the car then, the rear end will have a tad lower roll center which is a good sign. Car handles great! With this modification, do not forget, that the offset balljoint eats up wider track, the car has now about 5 - 8mm wider track. This comes from the longerball joints, but it is ok. Acceptable camber, caster values are still achievable.

Stay tuned - I am now working on the bump steer issue

I will update this one... - starting with a little riddle

Very nice work! Are you from Swiss?

I would like to do something similar to my GTiR as I think N14 does not work well in stock compared to P10/P11 suspension design...

Is there any problem with axles beign too short as new lower control arms are wider?

Hi, yes I am from switzerland.

The controlarms are wider, but due to roll center correction, you will only gain about 8 - 10mm per side, which is just enough to compensate for my new camber plate setup.
Don't worry - the axles are finde, I have used that setup now for a few trackdays. This weekend I will race the Speed-Industries Time Attack (SITAC.ch - Speed Industries Time Attack Challenge 2015 and report how the car behave...

Yeah, I thought from licence plate. How much are your cars restricted to mods? Ive heard a lot...

I had pretty similar car - 1994 Nissan Sunny N14, 9. generace, N14 2.0 benzín 110 kW 178 Nm (pics, vids inside). I do now have GTi-R and Id like to make it handle better as Im really not happy with it. I will be working with your idea and try to get somewhere. What coilovers you have? I want to build mine with Bilstein inserts.

I have S14 steering arm ball joints, they should be plug and play for P11, but I might compare them to N14...

I do also have info, that BMW E36 lower ball joints works in N14/N15 arms. I need to get more info and give it a chance as they are very cheap.

@jagy,

I forgot about that thread - sorry. My car is actually 'very' restricted to mods. It is not that easy to make legal modifications. But as I am trying to make them as stealth as possible it is not that easy for an uneducated eye to notice it.
My coilover setup is 'crap', I had limited funds and took the road for a custom KSport setup. I run 9kg front and 7kg rear spring, but if your car is dedicated for the track, I would suggest going with 8kg in the rear. Till christmas I am away from home and the car, I do not know what I will do with it during the next season. Right now we have a few ideas, I would love to find more grip by modifying the rearend and a upgrade the gearbox with a LSD. The car handles great as it is, but I would love to get better at what we are trying to do...

My suggestion for you...
- Replace the worn bushings
- Replace the front lower control arm bushing by a whiteline one, to increase the caster
- Don't go to low!
- buy decent camber plates, or even better the GC camber and caster ones!

Find a decent setup. The problem with the low rollcenter and the f%%% up bump steer starts when you lower it more than 30mm, than things get realy complicated
!