Thread: "It'z gettin' hot in here..so take off yur-turbos"?

It lets air in because when you're moving, the base of the windshield creates a high pressure area (see where the arrows are pointing towards the car?)



What you'd want to do instead to help the radiator is take advantage of the low pressure area (arrows pointing away from the car). Something like the hood on a Lancer EVO For example.



Ok MSpaint time:



See how less air is getting through the radiator because of the airflow from the back of the hood blocking it? That's why the coolant temps go up.

but isn't your aerodynamic picture assuming a flat/closed hood? wouldn't a hood that's raised at the end affect the aerodynamic profile of the car? I'm not a mechanical/aerodynamics engineer, but it would seem to me the way the air moves through and around the car would change. It would almost seem like if the hood was raised at the same angle that the front window is at from the front of the car to the top of the car, it would have the same 'arrow out' profile as the air riding up the windshield does. In other words, if the air changes from a low to high pressure due to the angle change going from the low angle of the hood to the sharp angle of the front window, raising the hood would actually stabilize that conversion from high-low and maybe even neutralize it?

Also, from what I've read people's coolant temps actually go down?

get some sensors, try it, record data, and report back?

Raising the rear of the hood 1" on a B13 is not going to have that sort of effect. You'd need the windshield to be even with the hood like a ford aerostar to even hope of having that work.

Even Lemans prototype cars have a bit of pressure at the base of their windshields:





I haven't seen any objective measurement from a reliable source showing coolant temps going down.

The more I read about hood spacers, the more I can see where @MCarp22 is coming from. It seems to do ok under 40mph, but after that air is being sucked into the engine bay and presumably distorting the airflow through the radiator. I don't think the car would pass inspections with the hood like that anyways for the track even if it did work.

OK, so hood spacers are out. How about ducting? Any tips there? Anything else that's fairly easy to do to reduce temps?

Can you specify what "damn hot" in your original post means? There's a big difference between "I have a 180deg thermostat and was seeing 200deg coolant temps on my gauge" and "I touched my valve cover after i came of the track AND IT WAS HOT BRO!"

Looks like the water boiled over at some point each session although the temp gauge never showed the car overheating. Also, I just assume it's running really hot because it's a turbo car. I can hear the water boiling in the engine when I turn the car off. Oh, it was also 97F during the track day. I don't have a numbered coolant temp gauge but I do have an oil pressure gauge. My oil pressure got to a low point and never went past it at idle. I can correlate where the coolant needle is on the stock gauge due to correlating this with the digital read-out using Consult. I know where the gauge is when the car is on its way to overheating. I'd guess the car was 210-220 or so most of the day.

How about taking the fogs out? I've read that can help w/temps. I'll have to look behind the bumper and see what that would even do. Might be worth creating some sort of ducting to direct that air towards the radiator.

Anyone actually done full/partial ducting on their car before? Any pics/advice?

You really need to get a real coolant temp gauge with a numerical dial or digital readout. NEVER trust the stock gauge on a road course whether running a VE or DET which tend to run hotter than an NA DE. Even though you have piston squirters stock in your DET I would still install a decent external oil cooler if you're tracking the car. If you're hearing coolant boiling through your system you're at the limit. I'm speaking through experience as I lost a DE using the stock gauge in 95+degree heat. Replaced it with a VE and got the proper gauge & installed oil cooler and as hard as I run it the temps still hover near 210 on a near 100 degree morning. At least get the real gauge and see what your coolant temps really are

FYI - I've experienced a boiling sound b/c of a kinked water line from the turbo... Fixed it, then had the normal water moving noises.