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Thread: Preparing a Street(turbo) Car for a Road Course?

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Posts: 41-50 of 78
2012-06-19 03:21:15
#41
Originally Posted by Boostlee
AND Rotella is MUCH cheaper than Mobil 1..............


AND BETTER! I ran M1 15W50 and the analysis after a track weekend was no bueno.
2012-06-19 03:47:27
#42
+1 for Rotella
2012-06-19 03:58:30
#43
Well, I'm already running T6 on the street, so no need to change to something else for the track. Works for me
2012-06-19 10:06:58
#44
Originally Posted by wes
AND BETTER! I ran M1 15W50 and the analysis after a track weekend was no bueno.


Tell me about it
2012-06-29 03:43:52
#45
I know this has been covered..but I'm having some reservations regarding setting my strut settings to lowest settings. This would be theoretically below the stock settings. Can someone go into detail behind this? Also, should I tighten up the struts as the sessions go on to see how the car is different? I just don't fully understand the idea behind it.

Thanks again guys! Looking forward to the track day!
2012-06-29 04:39:37
#46
Your idea is somewhat invalid and the reason why is below

With the AGXs they are already valved differently (read: more "stiffly") than stock, so you are already beyond "stock" settings so your idea of stock is basically null and void.

Also to note, there is not necessarily such a thing as "stock" settings when it comes to adjustable struts. What it is, is a "baseline" setting from which you use as your initial start point at which you measure your adjustments.

Also, do not start to introduce variables (as in tightening up the struts) before you learn proper car control and how the car reacts to inputs from the steering, brakes, accelerator, bumps, FIA curbing, off camber corners, uneven surfaces, etc.

You will have a good ways to go before you start delving into damping changes. And although I believe with the AGXs the change (to myself anyways) is not as noticeable as say changes made on a KONI 8611 or KW Variant IIIs or any high end dampers, for an inexperienced driver like yourself, it may induce some unwanted car dynamics and characteristics and teach you bad form.

LEARN THE CAR FIRST BEFORE YOU GO MESSING WITH THINGS!! Its the hardest things to force yourself to learn, but its one of IF NOT THE most important lesson to learn!!!!

Goodluck
Last edited by Boostlee on 2012-06-29 at 04-41-03.
2012-06-30 15:51:30
#47
Originally Posted by Boostlee
Your idea is somewhat invalid and the reason why is below

With the AGXs they are already valved differently (read: more "stiffly") than stock, so you are already beyond "stock" settings so your idea of stock is basically null and void.

Also to note, there is not necessarily such a thing as "stock" settings when it comes to adjustable struts. What it is, is a "baseline" setting from which you use as your initial start point at which you measure your adjustments.

Also, do not start to introduce variables (as in tightening up the struts) before you learn proper car control and how the car reacts to inputs from the steering, brakes, accelerator, bumps, FIA curbing, off camber corners, uneven surfaces, etc.

You will have a good ways to go before you start delving into damping changes. And although I believe with the AGXs the change (to myself anyways) is not as noticeable as say changes made on a KONI 8611 or KW Variant IIIs or any high end dampers, for an inexperienced driver like yourself, it may induce some unwanted car dynamics and characteristics and teach you bad form.

LEARN THE CAR FIRST BEFORE YOU GO MESSING WITH THINGS!! Its the hardest things to force yourself to learn, but its one of IF NOT THE most important lesson to learn!!!!

Goodluck


I reviewed the info on the AGX's and found this:

Front (4 positions)

1- OEM
2- 15% firmer
3 -72% firmer
4 - 123% firmer

Rear - 8 Positions

1- 5% softer
2- OEM
3- 7.5% firmer
4- 15% firmer
5- 43.5% firmer
6- 72% firmer
7- 97.5% firmer
8- 123% firmer


I'm currently at 2fr/6rr

So going to 1/1 supposedly will be 5% softer than stock in the rear. Perhaps I should set them at 1fr/2r which supposedly has the same dampening force as the stock struts. I can live with that. For some reason I was thinking the '1' settings were more than -15% softer.

-G
Last edited by gomba on 2012-06-30 at 15-52-03.
2012-07-02 21:29:59
#48
How about tire pressure? I've read that you should fill them quite high to avoid deforming around turns? What do you guys run for tire pressure?
2012-07-02 22:55:59
#49
Depends on each tire compound and size. Start within 2 psi of the recommended pressure on the sidewall.

Read up on what increasing and decreasing pressures does for handling and work from there.
2012-07-03 12:49:08
#50
^^ I agree with what Wes said about pressure

P.S Its "Damping" NOT "Dampening".

Start your baseline at 1f/2r and go from there
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