Thread: Tubular front control arms

I have two simple questions.

1 In terms of ball joint height, what is the range of adjustment with this kit. Specifically, measuring from the actual pivot point of the spherical ends, how far below the spindle can these be mounted.

2 In terms of track width, how much can the rod ends extend outwards. This is important because the pivot point of the ball joint needs to move outward as it moves downward to keep the angle between the shank and the control arm itself in a good range.

I don't care about any other feature/benefit these control arms may present. To me, the only reason to make the adjustable control arms are to allow for just that, adjustment. I am very interested in buying a set for my B14, but I need to know they will allow enough adjustment to even make a worthwhile change to the suspension geometry.

Please provide more detailed specs in regards to range of adjustments. Thanks in advance.

1. Really as low as you want to go. The only thing that is going to limit you is the bolt hitting the wheel. The way the ball joint works is there is a spacer that moves it down, but there is always the tapered sleeve to keep it in line. Make sense?
In this pic you can see how the ball joint actually works.



2.We designed them to be 95% threaded in. This not only insures that they have enough threads but that you will be able to get maximum camber out of them too. I would say no more than 1" you should go out with heim joint. That would led to about 5-7* of camber in the negative position.

Mark

Looks like a great piece!

How much would the shipping be within US for these arms?

Free, $435 for the pair uncoated

So, to clarify, was it confirmed that the Whiteline rear bushings (as well as any aftermarket rear bushing) will work with these? The interior bushing diameter is the same as the stock. Just asking because it looks (though pictures are often deceiving) that these are a little thicker at that part of the arm. Also, how do we pre-order? Thanks!

Thanks for the pictures and timely response. Quick question though, I want to make sure I am seeing this correctly. Looking at the photo, is the tapered spacer insert a separate piece that simply slides over a normal off the shelf through bolt? Meaning the length of the bolt can be changed if need be to allow for more adjusment? If so, that is a pretty awesome solution.

What size spherical end is utilized here? Is it still a 5/8" or did you by chance manage to work in a 3/4" unit?

...and as far as track width, I understand that moving the spherical end out would cause excessive camber. I had planned to remedy that by simply pulling my camber plates outward to put the camber back in a good range.

My concern for the adjustable track is based on two issues. One being axle compression. I want to bring the hubs outward to avoid axle binding under compression. And two, like I had stated originally, I want to keep the angle of the shank vs. the control arm in check for the sake of keeping the spherical end in a proper position so as not to run into binding issue caused by excessive angle, especially when the suspension is at full droop. Does that make any sense?

I talked to Mark Monday and I told him I had the Whiteline bushings also and he said they will work, he said it will be tight though.

If anything these keep everything in line better. I think I see what your saying and I want to say no. These will not cause any binding. Now at a certain point i would assume that running too low of a drop can start to cause issues, but at that point your shock will be hitting the bump stops and your suspension is basically for looks then not function.

Mark

I do hope you consider using a larger rod end. I'm sure the 1/2" are sufficient, but this one of those areas where it wouldn't hurt to over build.



I understand that completely. I understand that they are designed to fit like stock. However, I was speaking directly to increasing track width by moving the spherical ends outward. In such a case, moving the spherical ends out would cause a negative camber gain, in which case I had planned to use camber plates to pull the camber back accordingly. Make sense?

On a separate, but related point, did you guys ever determine the differences, if any, between the B13 and B14 control arms. I was always under the impression that the B14 arm was a tad longer on the part that goes out to the ball joint. If this is the case, I would be concerned about fitment on a B14. I own and plan to use these arms on a B14 and I would want to make sure that the arm is, at the very least, the same length as the stock B14 arm, and certainly not any shorter. What control arm did you use for prototyping?

Again, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and for even being willing to take on this project in the first place.

this piece came out great. very nice.