I think the biggest issue that Keo and Chris have with 2JR kit is it's angle, but I'm not 100% sure without them clarifying. I just looked at the pictures and I wouldn't say the 2JR kit is as bad it's made out to be, it's just not as precisely tuned as a custom setup would be.
Update: Here is what the older one looked like:
This post explains the difference. Thanks to @Keo for finding the link.
Comparing it to the Whiteline kit for Subaru's the main thing I can see is the ball joint height is lower, while 2JR one is pretty which if is too high raises the roll center too high and causes a jacking effect. Having and adjustable one helps a ton since ride heights will vary greatly.
There are two benefits of restoring the roll center, A smaller roll couple, B helps gain negative camber as the suspension compresses.
Originally Posted by MikeK
On MacPherson strut-equipped cars, the wheel will gain negative camber under roll as long as the lower control arm is positioned less than 90 degrees relative to the strut axis. Unfortunately, many enthusiasts with MacPherson strut-equipped cars lower their cars too much and make this angle greater than 90 degrees. Beyond 90 degrees, the suspension will gain positive camber instead of negative as it compresses, significantly compromising grip (see illustration below).
Source
I'm my opinion, it's easiest just to raise the car up, especially with rear beam's super high rollcenter and short roll couple (compared to the front). I put stock soft springs/shocks on my p11 up front, and have been driving around and noticed a good bit less body roll in moderate turns. Granted when pushing it to limits it still rolled over the front tire, but that's because the springs up front are still stupid soft.
Update: Here is what the older one looked like:
This post explains the difference. Thanks to @Keo for finding the link.
Comparing it to the Whiteline kit for Subaru's the main thing I can see is the ball joint height is lower, while 2JR one is pretty which if is too high raises the roll center too high and causes a jacking effect. Having and adjustable one helps a ton since ride heights will vary greatly.
There are two benefits of restoring the roll center, A smaller roll couple, B helps gain negative camber as the suspension compresses.
Originally Posted by MikeKOn MacPherson strut-equipped cars, the wheel will gain negative camber under roll as long as the lower control arm is positioned less than 90 degrees relative to the strut axis. Unfortunately, many enthusiasts with MacPherson strut-equipped cars lower their cars too much and make this angle greater than 90 degrees. Beyond 90 degrees, the suspension will gain positive camber instead of negative as it compresses, significantly compromising grip (see illustration below).
Source
I'm my opinion, it's easiest just to raise the car up, especially with rear beam's super high rollcenter and short roll couple (compared to the front). I put stock soft springs/shocks on my p11 up front, and have been driving around and noticed a good bit less body roll in moderate turns. Granted when pushing it to limits it still rolled over the front tire, but that's because the springs up front are still stupid soft.
Last edited by Vadim
on 2013-09-17
at 21-54-50.
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