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Thread: Newb's BASIC NA Tuning Guide

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Posts: 41-50 of 83
2009-11-16 19:14:35
Same here.
2009-11-16 19:23:30
I'll look it into it. I/ll admit, I've never done this mod before.
2009-11-20 03:38:19
any update on the WC HP trick?
2009-11-25 22:40:35
I'm going to go do it now and I'll take pics....

edit I just tried this and here is what i think.......Note I have a 95 g20

1. His directions are completely misleading, he should of better described this "slop"
as I personally had no clue what to look for.
2.Turning the bolt ok counter clock wise to loosen it .....cool... then counter clockwise again? Wouldn't that loosen it more?
3.It makes no sense....none of it...that center bolt won't even loosen on mine.....at all

If anyone has successfuly completed this mod please let me know because the vague instructions make no sense to me at all...

heres the pics...

in this pic you can see the inner bolt I was referring to....
2009-11-25 23:16:58
Also on the regrounding the maf all I have to do is splice into the white wire and run a ground to the chasis?.........pic for reference...

2009-11-25 23:18:33
That bolt on mine was a total bitch to get off. I ended up tearing it up real good with a Philips screw driver and then had to use an extraction tool with a power drill to get it out.

Needles to say I replaced it with a hex-head screw. Picture: http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1497/652601.jpg

I'm a smart guy, and I've taken apart my fair share of distributors and CAS units. I don't think there is any "slop" either. I've never experienced any. From reading the directions for this trick the best I can figure out is that he wants you to move the rotor mounting shaft by a couple of degrees (forget which way) so that when you put the rotor back on it will be rotated a couple degrees. The reason for this is that it lines up better with the contacts on the distributor cap.

I think the idea is so that at high rpm and high load you get more time where the rotor and distributor contact point are next to each other so you can get a more energetic spark if you need it.

I don't think the trouble is worth it if you ask me.
2009-11-25 23:34:58
I agree it seems like a pointless mod and sooooo not worth the hassle. now the maf thing might be. Can you answer that question for me ben?

Is my drawing the correct way to ground the maf?
2009-11-25 23:49:13
I've never done the MAF reground myself so I've never looked into how it's done with too much detail. (I hate MAFs and got rid of mine not a moment too soon.)
It is a well known good thing to do though, and provides the ECU with better readings from the MAF. That is always a good thing.
2009-11-26 02:21:01
I think the key to the maf regrounding is to ground it on one of the two 10mm bolts on the back of the intake manifold. I think that's supposed to be where the ecu grounds at so that the voltage at the maf and what the ecu sees are the same. If that makes sense.

For instace, I checked my maf voltage at the plug, then used the battery as a ground, then used the back of the intake as the ground. The voltage was lower using the actual maf ground wire, than either the battery ground, or the intake ground. After regrounding it to the intake, it gets the same reading.
2009-11-26 02:31:08
So the tee method is correct?
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