Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
SR20 forum logo

Thread: What is the real difference between these two Polk Audio speakers?

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 1-3 of 3
2009-12-07 05:58:09
What is the real difference between these two Polk Audio speakers?
I'm looking to spruce up the audio in my '08 Mazda3, and I was thinking replacing the stock front speakers to start. The stock speakers suck and distort before the stock h/u and amp max out. I want something better, and I know a lot of guys here recommend a CDT component setup. That'd be cool, but if I understand correctly, it also means I'll need an amp, as well as have to cut into my door panels to mount tweeters (sail panels are occupied by manual mirror controls). I honestly don't want to blow anybody's doors off, I just want clarity and better bass response on a budget.

In my searching, I've found Polk Audio speakers are highly recommended. I also understand, however, that not all [insert acclaimed name-brand here] speakers are as good as their top quality model. Thus, I'd like some feedback on the difference between these two:

Polk Audio DB651 6.5 Coaxial Speakers (2-way)
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB651 6.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers (Pair, Silver): Electronics
These are $34.99 and qualify for free shipping.

Polk Audio DB6501 6.5 Component Speaker System (2-way)
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver): Electronics
These are $95.09 and also qualify for free shipping.

Most of the specs seem to be about the same, except the component tweeters hit 1000hz higher in freq response. The price is making me lean towards the coaxials, although I know for sure a separate amp driving the components will surely make them sound better, or at least louder. I don't really care for louder as much as I do better. Are the components worth the extra money/work? Would I need to get a sub still if I got the components?

If it helps any, I plan to keep this as low-key as possible, keep the stock head unit/(and amp if I get the coaxials), and for more bottom-end install a Boss Bass600 in the trunk or under a seat, depending on where I can mount/hide it best and still give it room enough to not allow for cancellation or overheating. I'd also like to keep everything under about $220, I think that would allow for a cheap 4-ch amp/no sub that again, won't blow doors off, but will meet my goals if I did go with the components.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
2009-12-07 06:15:10
Basically, the sound quality of components surpasses coaxials because, with the tweeter separated, it has a lower chance of being distorted by bass tones and vibrations of the woofer cone. Likewise, the woofer cone being whole with components, it will have a "fuller", less distorted sound than it's coaxial counterpart, which needs a hole in the center to accommodate the tweeter.

Coupled with the fact that the tweeter can now have it's audio signal stripped of all lower-frequency tones, the sound quality will be superior. The components don't have a separate amp driving the tweeters, it's merely a crossover that filters the incoming signal. Even though crossovers are technically "unpowered", they do wonders for improving upper-range sound quality.

If you can afford/accommodate them, the components will vastly outperform the coaxials any day.
2009-12-09 04:19:55
Thanks for the input Wingman. I'm doing a bit more research and realizing maybe they are worth the extra money. I'm trying to see if I can get away with not getting an amp and just running it to the stock amp, at least right away.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)

    Back to top