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Thread: Wiring powered sub?

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Posts: 1-10 of 17
2009-07-16 20:51:07
#1
Wiring powered sub?
Just picked up a Boss powered subwoofer. Yes, I know it's not a proper sub, in a box, blah blah, but I don't care. It's light for what it is, and more importantly it's compact - it's going under the passenger seat in my S13.

Anyway, I need some help from the audio brains around here. Signal is no problem, as I will simply run RCAs from the pre-outs on my headunit to the RCA jacks on the sub.

Power is the issue. The sub has three inputs - ground, power, and "remote." This is NOT the remote volume control, that has it's own plug. I believe it can be connected to the remote output on the headunit, right? And then the sub will come on and off with the headunit.

I'm actually not interested in this feature, as I'm afraid this would send it into some kind of standby mode when the car is turned off. My little Miata battery goes flat in few weeks if I don't drive the car, especially in cold weather, and I don't need to add a voltage drain to it. If I pull power and ground, it will come on with the car, and go off with the car as well, correct?

I'm planning to pull power from the cabin fuse box, so it's ignition power and not constant on. I do NOT want to run a cable from the battery; I don't think this thing pulls enough juice to warrant it anyway.

Any input appreciated.
2009-07-16 21:02:35
#2
Originally Posted by Rittmeister
I believe it can be connected to the remote output on the headunit, right? And then the sub will come on and off with the headunit.
Correct.

In essence, it controls a relay that allows the amp to draw power. If the "remote" terminal does not see +12v the amp will not turn on.

Originally Posted by Rittmeister
I'm actually not interested in this feature, as I'm afraid this would send it into some kind of standby mode when the car is turned off.
Not from any amp I've seen. When you don't give the "remote" terminal a signal, the amp draws no power.

Originally Posted by Rittmeister
If I pull power and ground, it will come on with the car, and go off with the car as well, correct?
Not unless you provide power to the "remote" terminal too.

Originally Posted by Rittmeister
I'm planning to pull power from the cabin fuse box, so it's ignition power and not constant on.
Woah. Bad idea. The cabin fuse box only has a few things back there that might provide enough power for the amp without completely messing up other circuits. You're going to need to run dedicated power cables just like everyone else.

Originally Posted by Rittmeister
I do NOT want to run a cable from the battery; I don't think this thing pulls enough juice to warrant it anyway.
Well, I guess we could do the math. What wattage (peak and RMS) does it draw?
2009-07-16 21:09:51
#3
Originally Posted by Rittmeister
Just picked up a Boss powered subwoofer. Yes, I know it's not a proper sub, in a box, blah blah, but I don't care. It's light for what it is, and more importantly it's compact - it's going under the passenger seat in my S13.

Anyway, I need some help from the audio brains around here. Signal is no problem, as I will simply run RCAs from the pre-outs on my headunit to the RCA jacks on the sub.

Power is the issue. The sub has three inputs - ground, power, and "remote." This is NOT the remote volume control, that has it's own plug. I believe it can be connected to the remote output on the headunit, right? And then the sub will come on and off with the headunit.

I'm actually not interested in this feature, as I'm afraid this would send it into some kind of standby mode when the car is turned off. My little Miata battery goes flat in few weeks if I don't drive the car, especially in cold weather, and I don't need to add a voltage drain to it. If I pull power and ground, it will come on with the car, and go off with the car as well, correct?

I'm planning to pull power from the cabin fuse box, so it's ignition power and not constant on. I do NOT want to run a cable from the battery; I don't think this thing pulls enough juice to warrant it anyway.

Any input appreciated.

Ok..

Input(audio): The RCAs to the headunit is fine

Input(+power): If you don't plan on running a seperate power wire for the amp, You need to find out exactly what amount of power it draws and whats the appropriate size wire. You dont want to run it to a smaller less powerful wire. Also, even when running a constant + wire, the amp will turn on and off due to the remote wire.

Remote wire: It is needed and yes it turns the amp completely on and off with the ignition. No stand by or power drains occur when the keys are removed.

Input(ground): Run a good sized wire to any bare metal point on the chassis or a part the connects to the chassis.

That should be it,
Chris.
2009-07-16 21:10:44
#4
Lol I took too long typing this =p
2009-07-16 21:47:06
#5
I'll find out the power rating. I know my brother ran a similar unit by pulling power from the fusebox.

In the meantime, can I run battery power to both the power input and remote input, and not involve the headunit other than for signal source?
2009-07-16 21:57:41
#6
OK. This is the BossAudio Bass600, 8" powered subwoofer.

Peak power: 600W
RMS power: 400W

I can't believe that I can't pull safe power from one of the big supply lines at the top of the fuse box. The instructions, while pretty basic, do say to use an inline fuse holder in the power line.

I await your next inputs guys.
2009-07-16 22:33:10
#7
Originally Posted by Rittmeister
In the meantime, can I run battery power to both the power input and remote input, and not involve the headunit other than for signal source?
Yes.
2009-07-16 22:36:40
#8
I would run a dedicated 8 gauge wire. 600W above and beyond what anything behind the fuse box is meant to deal with is not a good idea. That's alternator output power you're talking about.
2009-07-17 01:53:44
#9
Originally Posted by BenFenner
I would run a dedicated 8 gauge wire. 600W above and beyond what anything behind the fuse box is meant to deal with is not a good idea. That's alternator output power you're talking about.


I usually just stay out of this section ....but...
Definately run 8 gauge with an inline fuse to the battery,and a 8 gauge ground to your seat bolt.Run the RCA down the opposite side of the car from the power to help avoid noise(whine)
Either that or just get a nice FIRE EXTINGUISHER

Why not just spend a few dollars and a few minutes to do it right?
I know times are tough,but jeez
Go to walmart and get an amp install kit for less than 20 dollars.It will come with everything you need,including the RCA wire.
2009-07-17 02:18:02
#10
Originally Posted by eggman
I usually just stay out of this section ....but...
Definately run 8 gauge with an inline fuse to the battery,and a 8 gauge ground to your seat bolt.Run the RCA down the opposite side of the car from the power to help avoid noise(whine)
Either that or just get a nice FIRE EXTINGUISHER

Why not just spend a few dollars and a few minutes to do it right?
I know times are tough,but jeez
Go to walmart and get an amp install kit for less than 20 dollars.It will come with everything you need,including the RCA wire.


This has NOTHING to do with money. I am perfectly willing to buy the necessary materials. No reason to get sarcastic.

I just know what a pain in the ass it is to run stuff through the firewall on this car. Now that I know the wisdom that's what I'll do.
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