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Thread: 17 year old car. Anyone know YET why we need to get extra adjustment from the clutch?

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Posts: 31-40 of 112
2008-08-18 17:22:45
#31
Originally Posted by Keo
is that after or before I lube the stuff for you?


uh oh keo and jen... is there something you guys need to tell us about?
2008-08-18 17:26:50
#32
lol, if anything Jensen's the bitch!!
2008-08-18 17:59:39
#33
I have been running the most extreme pressure plate (aka act XT) out there and never had the issues you guys have. If you simply take the adjuster all the way in to take up slack it causes premature stress and lengthening on the cable and it snaps. YOu MUST move the mounting point of the clutch cable BACK TOWARDS FIREWALL so that you have proper tension on the clutch cable. This will prevent clutch arms and cables from breaking.

Brent
2008-08-18 18:06:37
#34
I had the same issue after i installed a new Exedy into my 200sx. The cable just wouldnt work. I bought an OEM Nissan cable and it was much better but not perfect. After swapping the motor and trans into the Sentra and using the reducer trick, and i drilled a hole diagonal to the hole in the bracket to make it more sturdy. One the factory bracket both holes are in line with each other vertically which does not make for a great mount. If you take the bracket off you will notice that there are 4 holes behind there, at least on the B14s. You could drill two holes and add two more bolts to make it stronger.
I have about 3k on the swap and i have had to adjust it a couple of times but the cable has plenty of adjustment left.

Last night i was taking it out on a beat lap and when shifting out of first at redline it would not go into 2nd at all. I got it home and adjusted it a little and it was fine. Now this morning it would not go into gear to I adjusted it again and it was fine all the way to work. I did adjust it the other day because the release was all the way at the top of the pedal but now its just where i want it.

Edit: Coach, i need to have a little slack in the cable for it to work, otherwise if i press the cable all the way in it wont let me put it into gear, but half way in it works great.
2008-08-18 23:11:48
#35
according to fsm, you should have 1" of slop in teh clutch at the top, then it begins engagement and should engage half way off floor.

BRent
2008-08-23 03:01:29
#36
Ive never had any problems with one ever.
2008-08-23 16:01:12
#37
Originally Posted by blairellis
You need this:



Damn right yall need this.

1. With heavy duty presure paltes the bracket bends backwards. All you need is to have someone press the clutch down and take a look at it.

2. The brace is there so you dont have to over tighten your cable to get the cable to disengage properly. Without the brace you clutch will still only partialy disengage on the floor which is way to low.

3. If you look on the bracket you will see there is a 1/2in ring welded on, there is a grove on it to get the cable through. This ring gives you xtra adjustment.

4. Some made a comment that they dont see how this bracket will help to save your tranny. Well think about it. If you clutch does not disengage properly you will be grinding the gears. This is a serious problem on the older style tranny where the 3rd gear is weak already. This stops the constant beating on the gear which eventually will break if you get continious grinding.


Anyone who has tried this bracket will tell you how well it works. Lets put it like this, I have made this bracket since 98 and I have never broken a tranny.
2008-08-23 16:02:18
#38
Pretty White, please give me a call when you see this message.
2008-08-23 16:03:54
#39
Willing to make bracket for people if you guys are intrested. All you guys have to do is send me some of the factory brackets. I like to make them in bunches as I have to pull out a jig and as simple s it looks it does take alot of work.
2008-09-08 12:41:21
#40
Originally Posted by Andreas
Pretty White, please give me a call when you see this message.


I will call you later. I just saw this message. Been busy.
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