Thread: New Axles and Wheel Bearings.

So tomorrow or Saturday I'm putting in new axles and wheel bearings, what advice could you give me?

Replace the axle seals in the transmission while you are in there, change tranny oil to Redline MT-90, coat the inside of the passenger axle carrier bracket with antiseize compound.

Take the front hubs to a shop with a press that is used to working on FWD bearings.

so what is the best way to go about taking out and putting in the axle seals in the tranny?

I just drain the transmission fluid, pry out the old seals with my fingers or a screw driver making sure not to scar up anything. Then tap the new seals in. Sometimes I have to use a socket extension and tap it with a hammer while going around the outer edge of the seal to get it in. I'm sure there's a better way to do it. *shrug*

When removing the axle take a pry bar and " snap " the end inside the tranny, to relsease it from the c-clip that holds it in.

In my experience i wouldn't replace the seal unless it's leaking , old and ratty looking or if you're afraid of tearing it up when taking the old one out.

If you are going to replace it , you can rent the seal driver from AZ and get it in there flush with the tranny. Remember , the seal must be driven from the outside, most ppl use a big socket like a 30 mm but that only sits on the inside of the seal. Also i put some gear oil on the outer edges of the seal just to make it slippery enough to slide it in.

And don't lose that spring that sits inside the seal.


Don't ask me how i know .

thanks for the advice guys, the passengers side seal came apart when we took the axle off so we have to do that one ill check the drivers side b4 we take it out. Also while taking the hub off we found that the lower ball joint on the passengers side was screwed up (the seal was ripped, or we just broke it with the ball joint separator) so we have to replace that now. We got a ball joint press so hopefully we can do it without replacing the whole lower control arm like haynes says you have to.

thats the reason why i don't like using pickle forks, they dig into the rubber part.

My method is to "shock" the ball joint until it comes loose i.e hit the side of the knuckle of the component i want to remove see pic below......here's where i would hit the knuckle to remove the tie rod end......

that what we did with the other side and its still like new lol

how do you get the drivers side axle back in the snap ring is causing problems