Thread: OK I'm Stumped

I too was thinking spring movement. They can bind a little when turned to full lock at rest and then unbind all of a sudden once you start moving.
A little grease above and below the spring could be your cure.

That would just make one loud sound, not a knock knock knock sound while only turning right and gasing it. I have rubber hose threaded on the bottem of the hyperco's to stop them from making that sound I think your trying to describe. I ordered a drivers side control arm. Is it wise to replace them both at once ,or is it ok to do just the one?

You can do one control arm at a time if you're doing it yourself and keeping an eye on things.

Are you sure you don't have a bad cv axle.

I keep thinking the same thing, but he's said he replaced them already. Maybe the replacement was bad too?

It *does happen unfortunately

I have seen axles where the center shaft is slightly too long and binds the joints when turning. Usually happens on the cheaper off-brand store-bought axles.

This is typically caused by a faulty upper bearing binding.



As stated, the vehicle needs to be raised and the suspension needs to be shook down to determine the source of your noise. Tie rods are found by grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 and firmly shaking back and forth, wheel bearings are found by grabbing at 12 and 6 and shaking up and down. You can sometimes feel the lower ball joint while shaking for tie rod play. Ball joints are confirmed by grabbing 730 and 130 and shaking back and forth. And by 730, I mean the lower front corner of the front wheel. The best way to determine ball joints is to raise the vehicle and load the suspect corner suspension at the lower control arm as close to the wheel as you can get and using a long pry bar and lifting up on the tire while observing the ball joint for movement. Other components such as bushing need to be done with the vehicle raised and a pry bar trying to move the component away from the chassis. Sway bar end links are a common knocking noise that can be mistaken for ball joints and are sometimes a little harder to observe.



As previously stated, check everything till you find the faulty component.

Ended up being the wheel bearing. Replaced the control arms and sway bar bushings. It still made that noise but the hub had no play. Still we took it apart and found it was bad. I replaced the whole hub and bearing. All good now thanks for all the replies it helped a lot.


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lmfao. I have no idea how I missed this but I swear half way through reading your first post my initial thought was "hey that is exactly what my B14 did when the WHEEL BEARING died" Glad it is fixed now.