Thread: Noob AC, cv boots, oil pan parts questions.

Most likely true. The A/C system is not complicated but it is easily messed with. Bryan works wonders with A/C systems and his advice is truly great. Thanks @bhowle for contributing.

I am running the original condenser, expansion valve and evaporator in my 225k mile P10. I have replaced the drier and had the rubber lines rebuilt. Also running a used (junkyard) compressor since the only "new" one available is a 4 Seasons unit of questionable quality. Used OEM over new aftermarket ching chong Chiawan crap any day.

...and if the AC was just working and only leaked out refrigerant/oil, the expansion valve is most likely still good. It can get clogged that's about it so if the system was clean, running, and just dumped refrigerant, I wouldn't mess with the expansion valve. It's a fine line between "preventive maintenance" or "since you're in there" and "if it aint broke dont fix it". Your call.

Sent Greg an email yesterday.

Thanks gentlemen!


Another newb question.

Do I need to correct (install) that PCV system immediately or can that wait until Jamie arrives? I don't know how critical this is. Obviously we made it home without it. Do I need this corrected pronto and add it to my list below?



Prior to Jamie arriving.

1) CV boot

2) AC fully working, including melted Spal radiator fan. New compressor, drier, expansion valve, B14 1.6 liter low pressure line, and o-rings. My condenser looks really clean, replaced in 2008 and my car is not even remotely a daily driver.

3) Under hood temps addressed with a turbo blanket, exhaust wrap, heat barrier material, and possibly custom heat shields.

4) Temperature gauge working with the correct temp sender installed.

5) Change my oil. Carefully bang out oil pan and re-install with grey Permatex.

The WOT section of the PCV system can wait for Jamie. This is the port that points to the driver's side strut tower.
When you do plumb that section, you will want to make sure to get the OEM restricor in there. (And the fire suppressor if you're being super anal about it. I would not go through the trouble of obtaining one if you've lost yours. History has shown it is unnecessary.)
There are a million ways to plumb this part of the system. I go over them here:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/34413-crank-case-ventilation-fully-explained-naturally-aspirated-edition.html
http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/44727-crank-case-ventilation-fully-explained-turbocharged-edition.html


The idle and partial throttle part of the system (the port facing the firewall) should be taken care of ASAP if you plan on driving the car any.
To do it like OEM, you will need the PCV grommet from the newer Nissan engines and then you need to get a PCV valve that is designed for use with a new style grommet (almost all of them are). I chose one from a Toyota because it had a 90 degree bend built in which worked with my hose routing best. Depending on how you want to route your hoses, you might want a straight valve, in which case you can get the same one that comes with the newer Nissan engine.

You will also need the OEM restrictor in place. If you have the original hose, it has the restrictor built-in which you can remove and reuse. If not, you will need to order an OEM hose to get one. Or make one from scratch?

Use whatever generic/cheap hose you can find that is the right inner diameter. This part of the system will see boost pressure at max, so it doesn't have to be anything special. You can use EFI (high pressure) fuel hose, but even that is way overkill. I'm using generic parts store carburetor (low pressure) fuel hose I believe.

For a turbo build seeing less than 30 PSI, this is the way to do it IMO. The only way to make it better is to use a metal PCV valve and the high pressure hose, but that's not needed with your planned boost levels.
AN lines are not the right thing to use. WAY more expensive and flashy than needed, and super annoying to try to find a restrictor for not to mention figuring out how to get the valve incorporated. If you see AN lines here in the engine bay you can bet the restrictor is missing, and thus the car is not setup to run on the street for years and years.

Threads and thread posts to check out:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/46742-20v-valve-cover-pcv-valve-what-do-you-use.html
http://www.sr20-forum.com/members-rides/554-benfenner-s-1994-black-se-r-26.html#post749033
http://www.sr20-forum.com/members-rides/554-benfenner-s-1994-black-se-r-30.html#post890015

More pics for fun:
http://forums.trinituner.com/upload/data/52/DSCN2903.JPG
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/465286_10150781808855100_381796140_o.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/620943_10151103681100100_1864575275_o.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/411419_10151103681695100_121718649_o.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/413253_10151103683605100_23946428_o.jpg

Shawn as a tech im going to give you some advice to help save you some time and money. First of all the a/c, the only time you should really have to replace all the components of the a/c system is if the compressor grenaded itself internally and spread metal into the system. If the system was just open to the elements then no need, just replace the drier. The rest of the stuff can remain the same. If the compressor did grenade, then a new condenser, drier, and expansion valve are recommended. Due to the difficulty of the expansion valve, you can remove the lines from the firewall and actually flush out the expansion valve and evaporator with solvent and then compressed air to get all liquid out. Just to give you a heads up. No need to waste money on stuff you dont need. I do this for a living and i never have a/c jobs come back on me. Also definitely use the b14 low side a/c line, it clears turbo stuff much better.

As far as the pan, bang that crap out and put it back on. Simple as that.

CV boots are somewhat hard to find now a days and its almost cheaper and less of a headache to just get a new axle. I think i paid 55 bucks for a driver side axle....aftermarket of course but that was not a big deal to me. You can do the boots but im gonna tell you now, they make a mess and youll need a special set of pliers for the boot clamps.