Thread: Lean condition

and P10 ECUs run more timing than SE-R ECUs to begin with.

Installed a new FPR, a couple of notes...

When I pulled the fuel pump fuse it shut down almost immediately, this seemed suspect to me like it was letting too much fuel back to the tank and not keeping pressure in the rail.

I kept starting it and letting it shut off to use up the fuel in the rail and relieve pressure, but it seemed to go on forever. I didn't want to tax the starter so I didn't keep going to the point where it stopped starting at all. I though this was a bit odd.

When I pulled the hose off the rail it still had some pressure in it even after ^^^^.

The "head" of the old FPR was "free" and I could spin it. The new one did not and I wasn't about to force it.

With the new FPR installed I let it run for a bit, then pulled the fuel pump fuse. It took about 4-5 seconds until it began to stumble and about 10 total until it shut off. This is how I thought it should be, not shutting down immediately.

This morning it seemed perfect until it got up to temp, then it seemed a bit sluggish at low RPM, but once RPM's were up it felt very responsive like it should.

Idled in my parking spot at work this morning with the windows down and could not detect that "lean smell". Maybe the wind wasn't in my favor.

More thoughts after I put some miles on it and sniff the tailpipe some more.

It's nice to have a perfectly operating example of the engine you're working on. While comparing vacuum lines and operation between my SE-R and P10 I identified a non-working AIV control solenoid this morning. Not sure if it had/has anything to do with the lean condition, but it's probably why I had issues with the emissions test.


EDIT: I put 12 volts directly to the solenoid and it does work. Looks like it's not getting a signal...

FSM states to check "10 amp fuse" and "harness continuity between fuse and solenoid valve". What 10 amp fuse, Nissan???

EDIT: Found it. It's fine.

Back to this. Tested the AIV operation per the FSM and it's good. Looks like I don't have a vacuum signal (or an extremely weak one) coming to the back side of the AIV solenoid from the EGR Purge solenoid. Currently have AIV bypassed and vacuum to the PAIR valve all the time, and it's running well with no nasty stank at idle. Have to do some digging and pull out the EGR Purge solenoid when I have time and the weather cooperates.

The more I drove the more this felt like the timing was retarded, but damned if I didn't have her at +17 following the proper procedure. Something kept telling me the timing so yesterday for the hell of it I loosened the dist and blindly bumped her up. A test run showed marked improvement, back to the driveway bumped it up a little more and it was even better, one more time and more improvement yet. Today it felt like it could take a little more so I did and I found the SR20 I know and LOVE! She's a tad sluggish down low, but I think that may have something to do with the half-assed vacuum routing to the PAIR, otherwise she pulls hard and sounds as aggressive as she should. I have no idea where my timing is, but I really don't care. It's like a whole new car.

Don't be blowin 'ish up now!

You can run a very healthy amount of timing on the stock ECU. Even on the safe JWT ECU, on a dyno, I ran up to ~10 degrees advanced over the base of 25 degrees before power began to level off. When I bumped more, power began to fall off so I went down to about 7 or 8 degrees. Been running that since 2009 probably.

You drive like an old man...but your old man drives like a crazy man!

Ya, if you really want to travel, have him lead. He will get you there in record time. (please see 2012 Ohio return trip, we clocked it in only 5 hours and 45 minutes)

The older he gets, the less fucks given is pretty clearly evident.

I thought I was doing the nice thing by only going 20 MPH over the posted speed limit for the caravan purpose. If he isn't traveling 90 MPH, he is wasting time.