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Thread: Hairline cracks in the bolt reliefs for the oil pan bolts inside the block

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Posts: 1-10 of 11
2013-10-13 23:14:55
Hairline cracks in the bolt reliefs for the oil pan bolts inside the block
Backstory: I've been building this engine for a while finally got it all together and in the car. Tried to start it and it starts but the oil light doesn't turn out after about 15 seconds so I turn it off. I check the top end do the motor and it is dry. In trying to diagnose why before pulling the motor back out I feed an oil line into the hole in the center of the oil filter bracket and try putting oil in and then try cranking the engine with no spark or fuel going to it. No luck there. So now I know I've got to pull the motor out and apart again so I do. Get it out get the head off and oil pans too. Take the oil pump off and the housing for the oil pump on the inside is destroyed! Cracked in half when I took it off the front cover. The inner gear for the oil pump drive on one side was cracked also. Then as I'm looking at the inside of the block I see these hairline cracks in the reliefs for the oil pan bolts inside the crankcase. Has anyone had these issues? I already thought that the oil pump was the issue so I got a new one but this block issue I've never seen before. Does anyone have any ideas about what to do? Use the block don't use the block reasons for either....
Last edited by bbdet1 on 2013-10-14 at 00-28-12.
2013-10-14 00:21:54
Never seen this happen but make sure the oil pickup tube isnt clogged/blocked or whatever.
2013-10-14 00:34:26
Never saw that happen to a pump before. Was it taken apart and reassemble? Something seems to have binded up.
2013-10-14 02:34:52
I'll be the first to put a guess in...

Gears installed backwards.
2013-10-14 13:49:15
Is it the matching oil pump and pully for the block? If not, did you use the correct spacer? As per the block if its cracked on the case you can JB Weld it, Aluminum brase or get it welded
2013-10-14 14:18:23
something wrong with crank pulley ? check to make sure able to spin by hand w/o and w pulley in place. Crankshaft out of round or gear not installed correctly.
as for stripped threads, would advise on clean chase threads to see how bad they really are. If that bad, would say time-serts or heli-coil.
2013-10-16 03:23:28
Hairline cracks in the bolt reliefs for the oil pan bolts inside the block
The block is a DET block. The oil pump was not the matching pump for the engine. I now have a brand new GTiR oil pump that I will be running when I get it put back together. So what spacer should I run using the aforementioned block and pump with a USDM crank? Keep the info coming guys please.

Also FYI The oil pan bolts are not stripped the reliefs inside the crank case cracked and oozed some silicone from the last install of the oil pans. What I figure is some got inside the bolt holes and were fine until the silicone began to cure then the hydraulic pressure from inside the holes was just too much for the reliefs to handle. My thinking now is to just clean out the holes really well maybe JB WELD the cracks and continue to use the block as if it never happened. Thoughts?

2013-10-16 03:58:30
There shouldn't be any sealant in the holes, be careful when applying the RTV that it does not get in the holes, put the bolt in the hole before pressing the pan down. On the pump, my guess is that the wrong pulley and spacer were used. Did you use a DE or DET spacer with the DE pulley?
2013-10-16 13:08:17
Hairline cracks in the bolt reliefs for the oil pan bolts inside the block
I honestly don't remember...which should I have used and which should I use now? With the setup I'm going to be running? DET block de crank de unorthodox under drive crank pulley GTiR oil pump and front cover.

2013-10-16 17:38:33
This should help.
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