Thread: S3 cams install tips

I don't want to agree with you... but that is only oil I use.

Holds up great. Bearings, cams, wear surfaces, etc all looked good even after 3 years of racing, with motor blown up and debris thrown around inside (aluminum was smashed inside pump).

Hi again,my biggest worry about this install is the chain slipping on the crank,but i understand all the steps so far,i need to remove the tensioner as i have a updated one to replace it

So my question is has anybody ever had the chain slip on the crank,also would it be ok if i supported the chain by holding it up with a cord or something,when the spockets are undo ect to prevent movement at the crank.

My suggestion is to o the following:

Once everything is installed and you pull the zip ties off the sprockets. Release the chain tentioner so it pressure on the chain. Once everything is good. Crank over the chain via the crank. Which will pump oil and set the chain in place with pressure. Keep turning the crank until you see oil comming from the squirters. Then you should be good. Lock everything up and start the car once you have the valve cover and such installed. Done this many times with no issues.

If your biggest concern is the chain slipping of the crank, then I strongly suggest you use the wedge method...........

use cable tie's on the cam gears,and keep them up and you will have no issues.even if the chain was to come off the gears,i doubt whether the chain has the room to come off the crank.you'd be dead unlucky. i too was paranoid about this,the fear is unfounded.do what wayne says in quote 23 as well.

Thanks guys,this has really helped alot,cheers.

As long as you are careful and don't physically drop the loose timing chain down where you have to fish it back up, you won't skip at the crank.

I also agree, do 1 cam at a time. Reason being, less bolts and cap caps laying around that won't get mixed up with the other, AND you can attempt to place the new cam in the exact same position as the old cam when its removed. Even though they are already supposed to be at 10 and 12 o'clock, but doing 1 cam at a time just makes it easier. Especially if it's your first.

Before you bolt everything back up, double check the cam timing. If it's off a tooth or two, don't panic. It's not that hard to correct it.

Think of it this way. The correct cam timing (assuming stock gears) is really about getting the length of chain correct between the 3 gears. The starting point is always the crank gear (ie. why it's set to TDC on #1 cylinder). The length of chain between the crank gear and the exhaust gear is determined by getting the exhaust gear keyway at 12 o'clock with no slack between it and the crank gear (still @ #1 TDC). The length of chain between exhaust gear and the intake gear is determined by counting roller pins (20) between the two gear marks. If you get those 2 chain lengths correct, it's timed correctly. I, personally, think un-installing/installing the cam under the caps requires more attention to detail. It's really important they get untorqed and retorqued precisely and in the right sequence.

We all have our own methods and ideas. Don't rush it man you'll be fine. Taking and putting the tensioner back on is cake.