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Thread: B14 SR20 not starting

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Posts: 1-10 of 58
2008-04-29 18:47:04
#1
B14 SR20 not starting
As much as I hate to make another "doesn't start" thread, I'm getting throughly frustrated with the car. Hopefully we can figure out what I'm missing.

After fixing some oil leaks on the engine (timing chain cover), it doesn't start. The car ran before the TC cover was replaced, and the head, cams, crank gear, and chain was not removed. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, new MAF, regrounded the MAF. I also checked the injectors, all come out fine. Proper ohms and all clicking and squirting properly. After trying to crank the engine (to no avail) the plugs come out wet. Even at WOT I get nothing on start-up. All plugs have good spark, and the timing (as seen below) is good. From what I'm getting, the only thing I could think of was the timing being off. Chain tensioner is good, and if the crank gear skipped during my work, the cams would be off at TDC then as well.



Fuel pump turns on with key, CEL light shows only crankshaft position sensor (I don't have said sensor on the tranny). Am I missing something? It might not run perfect, but with the injectors shooting fuel, WOT getting air in, and spark on all cylinders, it should at least fire.

Any help? Everyone out here is BMW or VW freaks, no Nissan love.
2008-04-30 02:39:15
#2
Did you disconnect the fuel lines for any reason?
2008-04-30 02:52:53
#3
No, I didn't. It is something I thought of this evening though. The car has been sitting for a while on old fuel, so I'm thinking it might have clogged the fuel filter or fuel pump. My checks for fuel were done a while ago when I could get a sputter still, so maybe now since it won't do anything, the delivery system got fubared somewhere.
2008-04-30 03:08:31
#4
So with the picture above, the crank is at TDC, with the 1st or 2nd tick mark (depending on motor) on the timing nipple, and piston 1 is at the highest point? What about the ignition timing? have you double checked to ensure that it's set for #1 to fire?

I'm sure you've checked, but I overlooked this once, and the distributor was 180* off.
2008-04-30 04:48:25
#5
Originally Posted by TeKKiE

I'm sure you've checked, but I overlooked this once, and the distributor was 180* off.


I have to check every stupid thing. It's not running, so that means some thought process in my brain didn't work right

How can the distributor get off 180*? It can go into the cam only one way (it has an offset rotor), so from what I understand the coil would have to be installed 180* off? Tell me if I'm wrong...

In the picture, yes, everything is TDC exact including the crank pulley markings.
2008-04-30 05:27:58
#6
Hmmm. I've been thinking about this a while and all I can think of is 2 things:

1) edit: What all did you have removed to do the job?
2) Bad gas

Also there is some nissan love around here..
2008-04-30 05:50:54
#7
Originally Posted by Danja
Hmmm. I've been thinking about this a while and all I can think of is 2 things:

1) edit: What all did you have removed to do the job?
2) Bad gas

Also there is some nissan love around here..


removed: lower and upper oil pans, passenger tire, crank pulley and all belts, xmember, timing chain cover.

bad gas crossed my mind too.

Mke's got the love. Lake Country is full of snobs.
2008-04-30 09:43:38
#8
Did you try to crank it over with the timing chain cover?
2008-04-30 11:45:52
#9
is the battery fully charged?

ecm needs 13vdc to make smart decisions it will act dum under 13v

is the engine cranking too fast ? will sound like there is no rithmical beat or sound like it bumps randomlly instead of a steady beat?
if so we need a compresson gauge here.

i would ck the compresson anyways is the cam timing if off compresson can be to low or to high

i had a simalar prob with my old head if i pulled the cams or pulled the timing tensioner or and time the oil bleed out of the head the lifters would stick
and i would have no compresson because the valves were stuck open i would have to loosen all the cam caps and spin it over untill oil was goin every were then retighten caps and lifters were good.
im not asking you to do that im tryin to get accross that a compersson test is valuable info


bad gas is a factor after 3month or more. you will smell it its a very foul smell if injectors are squirting bad gas you will smell it . or pop the gas cap and take a wiff .

if you reall think the gas is smelly. disconect the fuel line and put it in a bottle and cycle key to get a gas sample. after retriving some gas walk 20 paces away from car bring a lighter. pour alittle gas on the ground. it should light easlly if it wont burn then yea you need gas. also look at the sample it should be kinda clear amber not brown

at my shop we have cars sitting a sometimes a year waiting on the cust to aprove the jobs and the car will at least run ****ty.
2008-04-30 18:17:44
#10
Are you sure that you put the crank pulley back on correctly? Maybe the keyway fell off the crank and you just threw the crank pulley back on?
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