Thread: Getting A/C going

thanks.. on my b13 im still runing r12 and re-did my whole a/c system and continued to use R-12.. my B13 cools a whole lot better than my 2010 Chrysler 300 on a 110 degree day.. once i flip that a/c switch it cools instantly..

i did one b13 and converted it to R134a and let me tell ya the a/c didnt perform very well like it did on r12..

so best thing to do if u wanna go r134a.. is buy a 93 up r134a a/c compressor along with a bigger r134a condenser, high and low side hoses, drier and expansion valve.. the evaporator is the same so dont worry about that...

Since the compressor I bought on here makes a squealing sound when I turn it on (I think the clutch bearing is bad, and I don't know the condition of the compressor) I'm gonna buy a reman'd one. I already replaced the drier but I want to replace the expansion valve as well, where is the expansion valve located?

If Its squealing make sure your Belt isnt loose.. On some car like ford for an example the a/c compressors make a mild squeal while they are working doesn't mean it's bad.. We have about 3 f-450's that do that and a couple of f150.. Dunno y but mabe it's a ford deal.. Your expansion valve is located inside next to your evaporator.

Took another stab at it today and the same problem is happening, the system just won't take freon. I rented the manifold gauges and I'm reading high on the low side and low on the high side :/

Now the clip that goes from the harness to the compressor was broken off on the harness so I had to cut the wire that was going to the male side on the compressor and just spliced the wire going from the harness (where the a/c compressor clip broke off) and coupled it to the wire on the connector (where the wire would normally connect to the clip on the compressor for the clip on the harness to connect to it) could this be my problem? The compressor will turn on it just won't take freon. I did pull a vacuum for about 30 mins before trying to charge again

The joy of dealing with A/C. Definitely no shortcuts involved.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/14360-project-c-beat-heat-pics-inside.html

^Here is my thread.

The only thing at this point I can think of is the evaporator, it's the only thing I haven't replaced. I pressed down on the shrader valve on the low side and it did "spurt" so I don't think it's a bad shrader valve. The expansion valve looks like it is behind the glove box but everything I've read says you have to take the gauge cluster out? Is there a how to on how to replace that?

Dang really wish your pics weren't broken on the first page. Is the evap core behind the glove box? If so do you remove the glove box, remove the evap core and then once the evap core is disconnected you can take the expansion valve off from there? I was thinking of buying a new evap core but it doesn't look like they come with the expansion valve?

Could have too much oil in the system or could have a faulty compressor. Compressor explains why the pressures are retarded and why it won't take freon through the low side.

Is there anyway to test the expansion valve to see if that's it?

If I did valid research I found that 6oz of pag 100 oil needs to be put into the low side of the compressor and 2 oz of pag 100 oil needs to be put in the drier. Is that correct?

Has anyone every tried to maybe blow air through the low side with the system evacuated to see if they can blow out whatever it is that may be clogging up the expansion valve? Also does anyone have a "How-To" or a link on the expansion valve? From what I've read you take the glove box out and blower motor to get to the evaporator core and then the expansion valve is on the firewall side? A how to or ideally a how to with pictures would be AWESOME