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Thread: Moog ball joint - loose?!

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Posts: 11-20 of 23
2012-04-22 13:25:06
#11
Sigh, but the control arms on RockAuto are likely the same damn ones I have, Beck/Arnley - meaning that when the ball joints go bad next time I have to just get new arms....I wanted to avoid that this time.
2012-04-22 14:26:14
#12
Originally Posted by hammerin
Just get new control arms with the joints already pressed in. I think I spent $60 a side @ Rockauto. Press the old bushings out and reuse them?


Unless he gets OEM stuff, the stuff that comes on the cheap arms likely won't last. I had a set of cheap control arms that I had on the P10 that went bad within 20k miles. Bushings and ball joint were toast.

Matt, could you put up a wanted thread for someones old OEM control arms that the bushings and ball joints are in rough shape and use those as "cores" as it were? Or is this a pressing matter that you have to have fixed immediately?

If it needs fixed immediately, you could always take the arm down to the local parts store and try out ball joints til you find the glass slipper.
2012-04-22 16:02:33
#13
I replaced my ball joints a few weeks ago. Just used the autozone joint. If you go this route, check the box. There are two kinds of joints: Made in China, and Made in Taiwan. Get the Chinese ones, they are higher quality. They are sealed units as well, just like the factory ones.

The Sentra only has 103k miles on it, but man the change in ball joints help ride quality and noise a lot more than I thought it would.
Last edited by Coheed on 2012-04-22 at 16-06-35.
2012-04-22 16:07:53
#14
Mine looked like this:


the one made in Taiwan looked like this:
2012-04-22 16:21:00
#15
Use moog for years, never had any problems. They are some company out there that says they are moog but not.
2012-04-23 14:51:09
#16
Had this issue on jen36's nx. Some joints have over sized knurles on them so they fit nice and tight in older arms. But the next time you need joints you need new arms. We just tack welded them in place. When you need to replace again just gride the spot off and repeat.
2012-04-23 21:48:44
#17
I had them tack welded today for $20 by a front end shop here in Roanoke.
2012-04-23 23:53:20
#18
Thats strange that happened, Ive always had good luck with Moog
2012-04-24 13:28:42
#19
Originally Posted by blairellis
Unless he gets OEM stuff, the stuff that comes on the cheap arms likely won't last. I had a set of cheap control arms that I had on the P10 that went bad within 20k miles. Bushings and ball joint were toast.

Matt, could you put up a wanted thread for someones old OEM control arms that the bushings and ball joints are in rough shape and use those as "cores" as it were? Or is this a pressing matter that you have to have fixed immediately?

If it needs fixed immediately, you could always take the arm down to the local parts store and try out ball joints til you find the glass slipper.


I've had these on my car a few years now without issue. Only street miles, however.
2012-04-27 20:35:47
#20
Matt,
How are they working now?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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