Thread: temp. gauge

Nah I meant the little 1wiree plug lol

did it do this before you replaced the sensor? or after? If before and after it could be the cluster. Where did you get the new sensor?



The thermostat being stuck open would only cause it to take longer to heat up. Once at operating temp it will act the same. This is a sensor/cluster issue.

Reline, you need to check the resistance when the car has warmed up to see if your sensor is the right one.

Yeah try what he just said. This is my cluster now and it's been working fine. Don't mind engine light haha I took off my EGR

Celsius vs Fahrenheit

Before when we both had the USDM motor it work fine, but when I swap my motor that when it happen. Same with my little brother car. I'll have to check the sensor when I have time. We got the sensor from autozone.

Alternator - our work fine while it at idle it only when you drive it it goes down but when you stop at a redlight it would slowly climb back up and when you start driving again it would goes back down again.

I have the USDM sensor in my car with the JDM engine. I have the same problem

I wanna get this fix bfore I swap my VE back in lol if not ill have to get a digital water temp. Gauge.

i too have had this issue since my ve swap, i used the usdm sensor and it worked fine before the swap, i've changed the T-stat and bled the system but it still does it, the temp sensor for the ecu reads fine though.. i figure something was messed up with the dash sensor.

It could be a grounding issue as well. Since the sensor is one wire it gets its ground from the block, which could change the impedance of the circuit by the time it gets back to the ECU.

here's what's going on in my undereducated brain

there's 2 types of thermostats

the standard style, which is old school fails in the closed position and causes overheating

the reverse poppet, which fails in the open position which is what our cars come with.
If the thermostat is open, be it from failing or from being installed wrong, sagging down in the water outlet and leaving a gap on top, then coolant is always flowing through the entire system decreasing the ability of the engine to warm up.
Now take into account that there is a radiator, when you are moving airflow is cooling the fluid, and when you are not moving the engine has more fluid to heat, but the radiator isn’t doing much. When stationary (under 5mph or whatever) and the temp get’s high enough the fan(s) turn on and produce airflow across the radiator to regulate temperature.

I would still be suspicious of the thermostat even if it has been replaced, most people probably just use the cheap one that the part store keeps in stock, which may be junk, or it may be improperly installed.

I have forgotten to swap out a jdm sensor and had issues with the gauge, although I don’t recall the gauge ever getting to half way.

Rock auto has thermostats for 10 bucks (I’d go beck, their stuff is sometimes repackaged oem, if not repackaged higher end brand usually) and the sensor is 6 bucks (1 wire is for gauge)

swap the sensor first because it's easy see if that fixes the issue then check the thermostat
(you can test a thermostat by removing it and putting it in a pot of water and heating, but by the time you pull it out, just replace it)